Quote:
Originally Posted by pyromaniac398  you could go with the that kit, but you will run into some serious heat problems. I've seen a few threads of people who modded a 70w HQI into their biocube hood. Once melted a hole in the splash guard, and the other had to put a total of 6 ya 6 fans into the hood to keep the temp where it needed to be. If your going MH it would be better to have an open top. It is Insanely easier to keep your heat down in all - in - one tanks like that. |
I did this mod to my BC29g - it is not difficult at all. But let me echo what pyromaniac states. Heat is something that needs to be controlled. I did melt my splash guard. Why? Because I didn't have enough airflow over the MH bulb. I have no idea why anyone would need to
add 6 fans to keep the BC cool. I added 2 fans to the back of the tank to help evap (both pointing in) and I added 2 fans into the bulb area (a) because the 50mm fan I put in there wasn't enough - hence burnt splash guard - which I could have later removed(b) so I added a 60mm fan as well.
Both the 50mm and 60mm push air across the HQI bulb, so the heat is spread around the area instead of directed straight onto the splash guard. I also siliconed the UV glass cover for the HQI bulb on the splash guard too. I do not use a chiller, and my temps are very stable. How stable you ask? My home was 80-81 degrees 3 days ago (5 fish tanks + 2 turtle tanks + AC is off and it was 80 outside), and the temp in my BC only went to 82 from 79. That is awesome considering how little I am using to control heat.
I also agree that open top w/ MH is much, much easier to do. But I don't have that option either. The way I did it works well. PM me if you want a link to my walkthrough.
For a BC 14, a 150MH is super overkill unless you're keeping crocea clams on the bottom. Get a 70w MH and you'll be happy for the elec/$$ you'll save and get the same results with less evaporation. Either way, you'll need an ATO to keep the water level up. GL.