[burdenpi]

After reading other posts on it, I am thinking of buying this kit:

https://diyreef.authsecure.com/shop/...e59569fab1334d

I am building it in, so I plan to cut, paint and install it on a piece of plywood. The plywood will slide in and out of my built-in aquarium project. Does anyone know, can you only control each "zone" if it has its own plug? The question relates to the fact that I also saw this kit:

https://diyreef.authsecure.com/shop/...e59569fab1334d

But if this only has one ballast will they all come on and off at the same time?

I guess I could go this route, but that is getting up there is cost.

https://diyreef.authsecure.com/shop/...e59569fab1334d

[emccullough1]

Actually you could power two ballast with one cord if it was heavy enough gage wire. But a ballast can only be on or off. So all the kits you are looking at are for a singal switch . Which I dont see in the kit.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

The first link says it is two complete two bulb kits.I think if you look at the pics its the same pic for each kit.if you get the two kits like the first link you should have two ballasts and and two cords so you can have two switch's.

[emccullough1]

I missed that but you are right after a second look.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I know the ice cap is more expensive,but it does include bulbs and I am more than certain the Ice Cap ballast has to be a lot better than the "domestic brand ballast" offered by tek lite.Add to that the fact that the Ice Cap unit operates as VHO or 60 watts per bulb.and I think the difference is worth the money.

[mtfabel]

Im no electrician but I bet that you could hook up one ballast through some switches and control the lights independently. If I am incorrect I KNOW that someone will correct me.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Sorry but the only way to put switch's on flourescent balasts is in the one wire going into the ballast.

[emccullough1]

I'm shure what mtfabel meant to say is , If you want to kill your self give it a try.
Electricity is not something you want to gess with. If you dont know what you are doing get help. And not from a form where it may be a 10 year old giving the help or some one just gessing.

[Trev]

VHO = better.
as of ballast quality any vho ballast thats electric is good, magnetic is a no no.

as for wiring switches for each bulb, your going to be doing alout of soldering, and you will need a switch that can handle the power load to each bulb, its better to get a switch that can handle more power than what you are using it for.

other than that you could definetly do it. its just a headache wiring it up.

ive built many lights at home including shop lights, High pressure sodium fixtures(ballasts) and metal halide ballasts for a friends indoor garden.

if anyones interested i can post a thread on remote ballasting a 175w MH security light from home depot for under 30 bucks, thus turning it into a reef light with a simple bulb upgrade.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Greg,am I the ten year old or the one thats just guessing,hmmmmmmm or maybe both?

[emccullough1]

NATIVEVAMAN I did not point that at you but forms in general. But bad advice can be fatal with elc. I just wory about some one ending up dead . And as far as Im concernd you where corect the switch must be on the power lead.

[Flounder]

I seriously recommend you reconsider your purchase. I purchased a ballast, which controls up to four 54 watt bulbs (one ballast) T-5 high output 120 V for $40 from the local electronics store (no relation to the aquarium trade). Look at this site’s ballasts (the link centium has some good T-5 ballasts) Advance Transformer Ballast - Fluorescent Ballasts - Electronic. Chances are your local electronic store will carry similar products for a similar price. Wiring is made simple by following the uncomplicated circuit diagram provided on every ballast (assuming you are not colour blind). I then purchased four 6500 K bulbs, each under $10 (again no relation to the aquarium trade). I have found no literature to suggest that these relatively cheap bulbs are insufficient for the majority of photosynthetic corals. The other parts of this “kit” you can probably replace with items lying around your home (mirrored finished aluminum, plywood…) good luck, don’t waste your money and criticism appreciated!

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I doubt seriously that a 40$ ballast is electronic in fact it is most certainly magnetic.Magnetic means noise,the older it gets the louder it gets.Magnetic means heat and lots of it almost but not quite twice as hot as an electronic ballast.The black tar inside them is fireproof for a reason.It has long been known that 6500k bulbs are excelent for producing coral growth,however using 4 of them alone will give a funny yellowish cast to the tank.And algea likes 6500k more than coral does.To use 4 of them would be a very big mistake.The reflectors that come in these kits are highly polished 9 bend reflectors that take light from the back of the bulb and reflect it several times until it goes straight down in the tank.Even the finest mirror cant do that.Those 10$ bulbs have no protection against salt creep at the connection points.I am sorry Bob but just maybe you are the one wasting money.Let us know how it works out for you.

[Rainman69]

Ive never tried it but Ice cap ballast are dimmable. Should be good alternative to independent control. As for light frame I have found 1x3 frame works well and is lighter.

[Flounder]

check out the the website, there is no noise coming form the ballast

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Bob,I just spent about 30 minutes looking at the centium ballast specifics and the largest one in that group will handle 3 14 watt bulbs.Can you be more specific about which ballast you are talking about.You have to understand that I am all for a better cheaper way to do things.You also need to know that I install about 30 advance ballasts a year in a rental wharehouse facility that the company I work for owns.We get them at home depot.One tenant who has 4 of them on 96 inch dual bulb fixtures plays a radio to drown out the noise.Also in the above thread we were talking about t-5 VHO which is 85 watts per bulb in the 48 inch length.Which ever way you decide to go in the end I would suggest you use one ballast for each buld pair to create the dusk to dawn effect.Also to those reading this that are tempted to try a dimmer on any kind of bulb,remember that low voltage can shorten a bulbs life by up to 70%.On flourescent lites low voltage makes them flicker or not even work at all.

[Rainman69]

Like I said I never tried dimmer and know nothing about them. However there is a port in ballast I thought to be controlled by octupus or neptune controlers that slowly brings light to full power. Does this fall into what your thinking above.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Not at all Ray.I am talking about dimming the lights via a switch/controller when the lights are low for an extended period of time like when lower the the lights,have a glass of wine and.........

[Flounder]

ballast model: ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G google it if your interested

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I looked at that ballast at grainger and if you bought it for 40$'s go back and get all they have.Grainger wants 123.96 for them.At that price I would say that the Ice Cap 660 that will run 4 48 inch bulbs at 85 watts is the better deal.The ice cap 660 is around 150$'s.In fact you could get an ice cap 430 ballast for 135 and use 3 vho bulbs and get more light.That would be 245 watts for the ice cap and 216 for the advance ballast.Also the ice caps are made for salt water,the advance makes no metion of that in its catologue.I would recomend you stick with whats known and proven.