

|
| Equipment Protein Skimmers, Calicium Reactors, RO Units, Ozone, Controllers, Overflows, Pumps, Powerheads, UV, Heaters, Chillers, Lighting, Sumps |
| Notices |
![]() |
| Sponsored Links |
| |
| ||||
| I feel your pain. I also have a 90 gal with sump that seems to like 78 degrees in the am and 81 in the pm. I am sure when the outside temps reach higher this summer I am going to face the same problem. I am looking at the "Pacific Coast CL-280" from Premium Aquatics. Talked to a guy thats had one for a year and really likes it. Says its quiet and has never had a problem. Hes running a 120 gal w/MH and says it runs 3-4 hours a day max and hardly at all 4-5 mos of the year and has no trouble maintaining a steady 78 degrees. He thinks it has raised his electric bill on average $10 a month. I am going to get the specs on this unit tomorrow. I will let you know if anything looks bad. Good luck! Stay cool! |
| ||||
| I as well, know what you're dealing with. I am working on a homemade one out of a small fridge. The design is good, better in fact than the original one I started with. However, running 80deg water through 125' of tubing in a little fridge caused the fridge to run almost constantly, and temp drop in the tank has only been around 5 degrees; not enough for hot south Texas. web aquatics, aquarium lighting, chiller, coralife, aqualight, current usa, orbit, filters There is a real nice chiller here (thanks jimw369) and I may end up getting one of these to ease MY pain.
__________________ Onward through the fog! |
| ||||
| I hope I helped a little. Let us know if you buy one and how it works out for you. I am sure a chiller is in my future as I am constantly playing with these fans, sometimes I go thru 2 gal water a day from evaporation. |
| ||||
| Lynnvangsnes, I spent a little time thinking about your chilling problem with the fridge and a possible solution to it. You are having problems driving the flow because of all the coils which is reducing the flow and causing the causing it to not cool enough, correct? Here is a possible solution to the problem you may want to try, it should only cost a couple of dollars ($40) to try it. Go to a duel inline Sump system. Go buy a second container to hold water put this right in the fridge then on the intake to the fridge put an electronic bypass (temp controlled) that will by pass the fridge when the temperature is below 78 degrees. Joint the two systems on the other side of the fridge going into the primary Sump. This would eleminate all the coils and give you full water flow. This should correct the problem and with an entire body of water being in the fridge, between the cycles when it is using the bypass this body would have time to cool to fridge temp and would them mix with the water in the primary sump before entering the tank (so not to cause shock to inhabatents). Does this make sense. Jeremy |
| ||||
| Yeah, I gotcha Jeremy. That would work better. I will do some more testing in the next few days, to see if shutting it off overnite actually makes any difference. If is does, then your suggestion may be my next avenue of choice. I am dealing with things now that I had not anticipated, and reeeeaaally do not want to spend a lot more time on the chiller issue. I have investigated and found one for about $300 (ouch). To ease my anxiety (and my wife's) I may well end up purchasing one, and I will have to have something that works. Thanks for your comments!
__________________ Onward through the fog! |
| ||||
| When purchasing a Chiller! be sure to have a Good Controller for it! I know from experience that is not good to come home to a 60 degree tank and lethargic fish and dead fish. I had a expensive unit that failed me now I run 2 units to control my chiller. One thing I do know about my chiller is it Kicks A$$! ![]()
__________________ "Go Confidently in the Direction of your Dreams. Live the Life You’ve Imagined.” |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| |