[XuhQshinR]

My 30 gallon reef is getting overcrowded so I decided to refurbish my old 75 gallon stand and canopy.

I bought a decent 3/8" thick acrylic 90 gallon that fits on it nicely.

The issue that I have is that I have some equipment that was given to me 2 years ago that I have had in storage and I am not quite sure how it all goes together.

The new tank has an overflow (1 1/2" PVC outlet) and I have a Little Giant Non-Sub Pump, a UV Unit, and a Wet/Dry Sump with a Skimmer (The Sump and Skimmer are made by Crystal Clear Acrylics Inc.) I can not locate any info on them doing a google search.

If someone could look at my webshots photos and maybe give me some ideas on the correct way to pipe this and run my chiller, UV Unit, Skimmer, and Wet/Dry.

I live on the island and we sometimes have short power outages and I want to make sure that if the pump stops I will not have a flood all over the floor soaking my downstairs nieghbors!

The photos are located here --> New 3/8" Acrylic Reef Tank pictures from aquatic photos on webshots

Thanks All

[lazy reef guy]

may want to get some more info from more seasond veterans but if all the equiptment came from someone , than you may want to get new vho bulbs they on last about a year so you dont know how old they are. the wiring diagram is written on the ice cap ballast , next i would not use the uv light if you are doing a reef really doesnt do all that good . As for the plumbing in side of the overflow you should connect a pipe in the elbow comming through the tank that reaches some where near the top 3/4 of the overflow , this will allow the water to come in from top and bottom but has to go to the top of the pipe to exit down to the sump Once in the sump it will follow a path to the outlet where your pump will return to the tank. Your equiptment looks really good , some nice stuff Hope this helps but like i said get some more info from the really smart guys like native

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I would take that sump/skimmer and give it to someone you really hate.There is something about a square skimmer that make my skin crawl.Having a drain line with no return line is a bit odd,I guess you can figure something out to hang over the back.The overflow box itself looks a bit small to handle the kind of flow you can generate with an 1 1/2 drain.I agree with david about the uv sterilizer.I also agree with new bulbs and if you put a good fan in the canopy you might get away with leaving the chiller in the closet.I didnt look up the flow rate for your pump but you will need a bulkhead in your sump for it.Which brings us to the final point,that sump.It has no fuge which from my point of view makes it useless.That 30 gallon you are getting ready to empty would make a good sump/fuge for about 25$'s.(sump plans availabe on request).

[Amphibious]

The first thing I would caution you about is supporting the entire bottom of your acrylic tank. I can't tell for sure if your stand has as open area at the top or not. Glass tanks do not need to be supported but acrylic does.

Secondly, I agree, get rid of the square skimmer, virtually useless. As far as Crystal Clear Acrylic Inc is concerned, they are probably long gone. Many try but, few stick around making acrylic tanks and things. Doing precision Acrylic work is demanding and therefore expensive.

I differ from NATIVEVAMAN and lazy reef guy on the UV. I don't know of anyone doing a reef that isn't going to add fish to the display. There is a lot of misunderstanding and mis-information about UV sterilizers and their function in aquaria and particularly a reef tank. Suffice it to say, the only thing killed by a UV are the things that pass through and come in contact with the UV light. It will not slow down your cycle. It will not reduce the good bacteria in your LR or LS. What it will do is reduce the incidence of disease that inevitably find their way into our systems. I have been using UV sterilizers since the early 1970s and advocate their use in all aquaria, fresh, salt and especially reef displays.

Your overflow has slots top and bottom. If hooked up the way it looks, if/when you lose power or just turn the pump off, your tank will drain down to the bottom of the lower slots flooding not only your neighbor but your place, too.

I would make a Durso stand pipe for your overflow drain to cut down on gurgling noise and eliminate the draining problem. If you are not familiar with them, simply google Durso drain pipe. You should find them. Somebody here probably has the link, also.

As NATIVEVAMAN correctly pointed out, your sump has no room for a refugium. It leaves much to be desired as a stand alone sump, too. I'd take his advice and convert to 30 gal like he suggested.

Hope this helps.

Dick

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I agree with Richard on the overflow draining the whole tank,but my assumption was there would be a standpipe for the drain which is the appropriate way to set it up.
On the matter of the uv sterilizer I disagree.If the bulb is clean and and the water clear allowing the uv rays to pass thru it,it will kill everything that pass's by it,bacteria,algea,and most importantly copapods which are a food source for just about every critter in the tank.In sufficient strength there is nothing on this planet that uv wont kill.(accept maybe cockroach's lol)It will also kill the free floating stage of ich,but there are two other stages.If you guarentee that you are adding healthy fish to your tank by useing a qt then ich wont happen.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

In fact while I am thinking about it.Ozonizers are far better than uv sterilizers because they dont kill bacteria or pods but do kill ich at all three stages.And because it puts the water in sort of an oxygen overload it make the skimming remarkably efficient.The water will be so clear you will have to stick your hand in it to be sure its there.

[Dr. Clyde]

Glad I bought that ozone generator on ebay last night for $24

[NATIVEVAMAN]

clyde,I am glad you got a good deal on the generator but thats only half the deal.You will also need an orp monitor,and depending on how the generator works you may need a small air pump.To use the ozone generator you will need a skimmer in a sump.The skimmer and its tubing will need to be ozone safe.Remember that if used improperly this stuff can be dangerous to your critters.

[Dr. Clyde]

Thanks for the info, I guess I'll research all of that when I get this calcium reactor running & tuned. What is a orp monitor? I do have a ph controller.

[XuhQshinR]

Thank you all for the input for my new replacement tank.
I do have to make a slight correction as the tank is actually 1/2" acrylic and not 3/8"

I have definitely taken the advise on the skimmer and the sump.

The Wet/Dry is too small for my 90G and I do need to get a decent skimmer. I am currently looking into pricing them at this time. I am only home for lunch at this time but will read more thoroughly to your replies as time permits (hopefully tonight).

Again I do appriciate your input. I am almost broke $$ after paying for the tank and plumbing on this thing!
Down to about $100 left to spend at this time! So I may have to wait until next paycheck to get it fully operational so I can start it cycling.

I purchased 60 Lbs of CaribSea® Carribean Live Sand and 48.5 Lbs of Red Sea Coral Pro Salt.

Right now I filled the empty tank with tap water just to rinse everything out of the tank,lines, and sump, then after I get the new sump I will empty it and spend big bucks on RO water to mix my salt and sand.

Again I thank you all for your help.
Greg
Perico Island (Bradenton) Florida

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Get yourself a nice 30 long and build your own sump for about 60$'s.Cheaper if you can find a used tank.I will even give you the plans for free lol.

[XuhQshinR]

Originally Posted by NATIVEVAMAN

Get yourself a nice 30 long and build your own sump for about 60$'s.Cheaper if you can find a used tank.I will even give you the plans for free lol.

Thanks Nativevaman!