[rlcline76]

This is the beginning of my project. I am hoping for more pictures to draw from in this forum from our users. While I am completing it, it will resemble a rough draft. You might as well get informed while you are waiting.

*Water Parameters and Our Swimming Friends*
Coming...

Nitrogenous Wastes



Carbon Dioxide & Oxygen

Alkalinity & pH

Temperature

[rlcline76]

*MHLLE: The Mystery Disease*

No one can pinpoint the exact cause of Marine Head & Lateral Line Erosion. Lab work has been inconclusive or incomplete. As aquarists, we can only guess what causes this and make up for deficiencies and our shortcomings as they arise in our tanks. I will discuss some of the major factors that may attribute to this ailment. Keep in mind, the disease is not limited to these factors.

Aquarists may become aware of this disease by noticing expanding holes, or ulcers, around their fish’s eyes, surrounding regions and eventually down the lateral line.



Rarely does a fish die from MHLLE, but the disease may cause permanent disfigurement through tissue degeneration if not treated early. The lateral line, which aids in detecting movement, feeding and hearing can also be adversely affected.



It appears that tangs and angelfish are the most susceptible to having MHLLE, but it is believed that other fish can have it and not have the same textbook symptoms.

Nutrition
In some instances, a lack of vitamins C, D and A have been noted in cases of MHLLE. In the end, it is always favorable to provide a vitamin enriched diet, but it is also possible to have a well balanced diet and still have MHLLE.

Nitrates
Poor water quality contributes to many undesirable things in our tank. In particular, high nitrates may be considered a possible cause of MHLLE. A fish can just as easily have MHLLE in perfect water conditions. The aquarist should always practice routine maintenance on their systems and perform regular water parameter tests.

Activated Carbon
Activated carbon may also be included as a factor. However, many systems include carbon filtration and no signs of MHLLE.

Copper Treatment
Copper is considered an immunosuppressant and may even interfere with the absorption of dietary needs. Many fish undergo copper treatment at some time, whether through the wholesaler, the LFS or in the hobbyist’s hospital tank. Then again, some fish treated with copper do not get MHLLE.

Stray Voltage
Stray voltage is a given in all tanks considering our equipment. Some say that a ground probe may cause a charge which may not have occurred otherwise. Others assert that a ground probe is necessary. Anyone who has shocked themselves when putting their hand in their tank would probably support the need for a ground probe and a GCFI outlet. emmcullough1 helped me provide some useful links in Suggested Readings.

Stress
Stress causes illness in humans, so it should not come as a surprise that it affects fish similarly. Terry Bartelme states that stress reduces a fish’s slime coat production by 50%. This mucus is the first line of defense against pathogens for our swimming friends. (Bartelme, 2003). The treatment is eliminating the causative agent. This could mean improving water quality, a better diet, removing a tank mate, et cetera.

MHLLE may also be due to viral, fungal or bacteria infections.

[rlcline76]

*FUNGAL INFECTIONS*
Spores are everywhere, and fungus in the tank is no exception. Fungus has an important role in aiding the decomposition of dead fish and leftover food. However, fungus could be a serious threat to fish with injuries and bacterial infections. Hence:

NEMO HAS FLUFF WHERE HE DID NOT HAVE FLUFF BEFORE



There are a few fungal diseases that apply to freshwater and saltwater aquarists, alike.
The three most popular are Saprolegniasis, Branchiomycosis and Icthyophonus.
Saprolegniasis often has a few different molds, incuding Saprolegnia and Achyla. It is easily identified by the tufts of fuzz protruding from fins, gills, eyes and can even be found on dead fish eggs. It will attach itself to an injured fish with an infection or compromised slime coat because of water conditions. By the time the hobbyist sees the little balls of cotton (often called Cotton Wool Disease), the mold already has its claws into the flesh of the fish. This is why some experts discourage the use of dyes (e.g., Methylene Blue) as possible treatments. Methylene Blue will not be able to penetrate the infected area enough to be of much use.
Branchiomycosis, AKA gill rot, is characterized by heavy respiration and gasping for air at the top of the tank. Gills may appear striated and pale in the infected areas. This is often associated with gill flukes.
Icthyophonus is like Mad Cow Disease for fish. It is caused by cannibalism and from ingesting infected feces. Unless you have a tank with the high temperature of 68 degrees or below, you probably will not have to worry about this one. This fungus is internal from the nature of its transmission. For a more detailed description on Branchiomycosis or Icthyophonus, read the link University of Florida link provided in suggested reading.

How does this happen?
Conditions for a fungal infection are easily identified by checking your water parameters. Poor flow, excess nutrients, overfeeding and too much general decay in the tank can cause problems in more areas than fungus alone. Injuries caused by aggression or ammonia spikes during cycling can also encourage fungal infections.

Treatment
Like many things in the hobby, most organisms we do not want can be controlled by providing a decent environment. You cannot get rid of fungus in the tank, it will always be there. If you believe that you have a fish with a fungal disease, or symptoms of, check your parameters and make necessary adjustments. If you find that infection is caused from an aggressive fish, it might be time to rethink your stocking strategy. Treatment is a quarantine tank will be necessary. There is a wide array of treatment options. I would not endorse one over the other. Some authors suggest Methylene Blue, Formalin, copper or sticking strictly to anti-bacterial medications (sulfonamides) such as Furanase, or MelaFix, PimaFix and Maracyn.
The problem with treating is that most experts are convinced that the regular hobbyist would not be able to identify a fungal disease if it slapped us in the face. More than likely, we are looking at a bacterial infection, which would not need aggressive treatment. Instead, a little R & R in the QT with an anti-bacterial treatment would suffice.

[rlcline76]

*Nutrition & Health*



When I ingest too many carbs and fats, I go up one size in britches, my doctor calls me overweight, my blood pressure goes up, I have to undergo tests for diabetes, cholesterol, liver and kidney damage and I need to start reading labels on all of my food. I try to take it in stride since women in my family live until they are practically decaying. I’m on the fast track so that I can die in my early 80s.

I think it is safe to assume that our fish will not live to see 90, but with the proper care, it is quite possible for them to live more than a couple of years. Like with us, it is also useful to know what is in the food we feed our fish. Fish need a well balanced meal of vitamins, proteins and carbohydrates. And, as with us, it might be a good idea to know what is in the food that we feed. A plump fish is not necessarily a sign of health.

Proteins, Carbohydrates and Fats
These elements provide energy to fish. Protein is more desirable than the other two sources, but it also harder to come by. Those hobbyists using flake or pellet foods may want to read the label carefully before purchasing. The term “meal” is not necessarily bad, but quite often is referring to parts not high in necessary nutrients, like claws, heads, et cetera. Because protein is more costly, most commercial brand fish food has higher amounts of carbohydrates and lipids. Fish cannot easily utilize carbohydrates since it is more difficult for them to digest. Lipids, or fats, are more easily absorbed. Excessive fat intake has an adverse effect on the liver. I am including an article from Wet Web Media on basic nutrition here, and in Suggested Reading. Although scientists and hobbyists seem to disagree on what food is best, the article teaches how to read between the lines on dry food labels, discusses the disadvantages of all foods and will probably have many of you looking at your food choices more closely. BasicFdArtTepoot

Vitamins
Vitamins are extremely important. Its inclusion into the diet helps with nutrient absorption, which is necessary for growth and overall health. In nature, fish get vitamins readily from the environment, something hobbyists cannot easily duplicate at home. Instead, we may add a vitamin supplement such as Selcon or Kents Zoe. In Suggested Readings, I have included an article by Charles Delbeek which explains the roles each vitamin plays in the well being of our fish. Fish Nutrition

Garlic: Not Just a Preventative Against Vampirism
Garlic is one of the most popular food additives in the hobby. Unfortunately, the jury is still out on the health benefits of garlic in fish. Some believe that garlic acts as a repellent, much like it does above the water. Some hobbyists believe that it encourages picky fish to eat. Others think that it may cleanse the fish of internal parasites. And then there are others who assert that garlic may stop pathogens and bacteria from attacking tissue and making a fish further susceptible to illness.

The Natural Diet and the Fish for All Seasons
To ensure a well balanced diet, we should try to mimic what our fish eat in the wild. Often we cannot, and so we are forced to supplement food. Marine based foods should be used before we hit the produce section of our local grocery stores for lettuce and broccoli.

Please keep in mind, some fish only eat one food and will starve rather than adapt to another food source. Heed all suggestions to wait until tank maturation occurs. If a fish relies on pods as its main staple, do not acquire this fish unless you can provide its diet on demand. Some fish only eat polyps. Anything too difficult to feed may be better left in the wild, not in our livingrooms.

The aquarist is solely responsible for researching all livestock prior to purchasing. Some fish need more than one daily feeding and cannot skip a day. If your system cannot support a fish with these demands, leave it at the fish store. Rule of Thumb: The pinched abdomen look is only acceptable for supermodels.


Understanding Metabolism
Fish need energy to swim, to breed and even to feed. As with humans, the younger the fish, the higher the metabolism. An open water swimming fish may exert more energy than a fish that spends most of its time hiding close to the substrate. I encourage quality feeding and, in some cases, the quantity of feedings.

Water parameters affect metabolism. If, for some reason, you have to raise the temperature in your tank, consider feeding less. Higher temperatures equal lower available oxygen. Metabolism depends on oxygen. It takes energy to make energy.

Emaciation as a Sign of Underlying Illness
Most of the time, a fish wasting away is because we have failed to provide it with the necessities. However, fish can appear emaciated from fish tuberculosis or internal parasites. Unfortunately, these are normally difficult to confirm without a microscope and a good eye. Fish TB is not as common as other fish diseases. For parasites, some parasites do not kill their hosts, but it is advisable to quarantine all new fish before releasing them into your main tank. Any fish that appears ill should be removed from the main tank whenever possible to reduce the chance of infection.

[rlcline76]

*WHEN NEMO ISN'T GETTING BETTER*

There is plenty of death and disappointment in this hobby. After so many times you, as an aquarist, will be able to judge when your fish isn't going to get any better.

So what can you do other than watch your fish struggle?

One way is to try clove oil. Clove oil can be found at pharmacies and sometimes at grocery stores. It is also known as "eugenol". It acts as a sedative. Get a liter of tank water and about 20 drops of oil. Your fish will be put into a comatose state. Depending on the size of your fish, it can take anywhere from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. When the gills are no longer moving, it is over.

But most of us do not do this. Freezing is viewed as an acceptable practice.



It is as easy as putting the fish in a plastic bag and placing it in the freezer. The cold will deaden the nerves so that pain is not felt. It is a cheap method, but all materials are usually on hand.

[rlcline76]

Suggested Reading
http://www.farmertodd.com/library/rk...lectricity.asp "Stray Voltage in the Aquarium: The Shocking Truth"
Technical Details of Stray Voltage in Aquaria
Stray Voltages
http://www.masna.org/ms/fall2001.pdf "Using Grounding Probes in the Marine Aquarium"
Marine Head & Lateral Line Erosion: A Description of the Syndrome and a Review of its Speculated Causes by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
Head and Lateral Line Erosion in Fish
HLLE - Head and Lateral Line Erosion in Fish
Head and Lateral Line Erosion in Fish
Fungal Diseases of Fish
Fungal Infections in Fish
Farewell to Fungus
Fenner, Robert M. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. (T.F.H. Publications: Neptune City, NJ. 2001) Chapter 9: Disease.
Nutritional Deficiencies and Types of Food for Saltwater Fish
Saltwater Aquarium Fish - Optimal Health
BasicFdArtTepoot "Basic Fish Nutrition"
Fish Nutrition
Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Feature Article: Metabolism, Energy Use and Feeding Behaviors in Fish
Aquarium Fish Diseases Ick - Saltwater Ich and Garlic
Garlic: What has been Studied Versus What has been Claimed by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
Reefs.org: Where Reefkeeping Begins on the Internet - Garlic versus 'Marine Ich': Diallyl thiosulfinate activity against Cryptocaryon irritans infestations of marine fish

ParasiticDisease
Common Bacterial Infections in Aquarium Fish
Mycobacterium marinum: The Fish Disease You Could Catch by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
Nutrition 101
Nutrition
Wetwebmedia, Aquarium, Pond, Marine and Freshwater Fish, reef tanks, and Aquatics Information
What is the Most Humane Way to Euthanize a Fish?

Images
ENCHANTED LEARNING SOFTWARE HOME PAGE
Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle: The Key to Biological Filtration
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