[Lightsluvr]

Light system build:

I am going with T5 system on this tank. I have planned and now constructed a "rack" which has the same size as the tank. (24) T5 54W bulbs will be mounted to the rack, which will then roll backwards up to five feet to enable maintenance and cleaning on both the tank and the lights.

Here are some photos of the construction:

The basic framework - 96" x 37"


Detail of corner bracing - I mounted the braces inside the corners instead of over the top, because I need a flat surface across the underside of the rack for attachment of the endcap standoffs.


Finishing touches:


LL

[Lightsluvr]

As mentioned above, the light rack will be on a track to allow it to roll back away from the tank. Here is the roller system I selected:

I used a Stanley Products Pocket Door Kit, with 8' rails and rollers rated at 150 pounds each:

The rail construction:


The rollers:


I attached a 5/16" threaded rod to each roller. In turn the threaded rod will pass through the light rack's frame, suspending it 8-10" above the tank. The entire rack should then be able to roll back and forth the length of the rails:


Photo shows both tracks and threaded rods - spaced 96" apart:


Let me know if there are any questions...any comments?

LL

[map95003]

I thought I took on a big project when I finished my basement and built my small 75g w/ 55g sump into the wall.....what you are doing is insane, but it looks like you guys know what you are doing...tagging along for the ride, can't wait to see the finished setup....keep posting pics of your progress.

[Lightsluvr]

Originally Posted by map95003

I thought I took on a big project when I finished my basement and built my small 75g w/ 55g sump into the wall.....what you are doing is insane, but it looks like you guys know what you are doing...tagging along for the ride, can't wait to see the finished setup....keep posting pics of your progress.

Thanks for tagging along...

LL

[Lightsluvr]

Lighting it up...
The next couple of posts will document construction of the light rack described above...

Here are photos of the retro kits from ReefGeek.com - consisting of 24 54W bulbs, 12 Triad Universal Electronic ballasts, IceCap reflectors, wiring harnesses and FS Endcaps.








Starting the assembly:








LL

[Lightsluvr]

Completing and testing:


The 12 rows are controlled individually by their own ballast, allowing for control of each row. I selected four lighting sequences to be activated by a Neptune Systems Apex controller. The ballasts are daisy-chained together to three plugs for the Apex power module:

In addition, there is a plug for the LED Moonglow lights.



After the wiring was completed and double checked, I tested the lighting sequences. This one will be activated in the morning and will continue until lights out in the evening:


Then about an hour later, these lights will be ADDED to the above:


And then the peak (nnon) sequence will ADD these lights:


Here is the system with all 24 bulbs on:




I can hardly wait to measure the PAR of the array when the tank is up and running!

LL

[Lightsluvr]

Moving day -

Remove window from fish room:




Board up the opening, because the tank won't be arriving until the next day:


LL

[Lightsluvr]

The tank and stand are at a nearby LFS. It was necessary to remove a window pane from the store front in order to access the tank:


Out comes the tank...with no room to spare - the tank is place on my son-in-law's trailer for transportation to the house:




Followed by the steel stand:


Onto a waiting pickup truck:


LL

[Lightsluvr]

Arriving at the house:


Guaranteed to fit in this opening!


But not much room to spare:


Leveling the stand's adjustable feet:


LL

[Lightsluvr]

It is great when you are a member of a local saltwater club... all of the 19 guys and gals who helped on moving day are members of COMAS, Central Oklahoma Marine Aquarists' Society. The link to their webiste is: COMAS - Home
A great group! This move would not have been possible without them.

Gathering up at the trailer to develop a strategy:


We used 10 suction cups (loaned by COMAS) to move the tank...that made distribution of the 750 pound weight very manageable:




Through the window opening:


LL

[Lightsluvr]

As the aquarium was passed through the window, folks would be standing inside ready to reattach the suction cups and continue the transfer. It was like a bucket brigade - looked like we had done it before...




While some folks steadied the stand, a corner of the tank was lifted onto the stand and the tank gently slid into place...


More later...

Your comments are welcome, even it you just say hello... this thread is very lonely if it's just me narrating... say something Reef Builders!

LL

[alexech]

Excellent thread. I check every day for your updates.

[Lightsluvr]

Thanks, Alex. Keep leaving comments. I am not used to posting so many updates and photos, while receiving zero feedback... IMO, a build thread is the place to make comments, leave encouragement and ask questions...

LL

[BLKBRDTA]

Wow I can't believe the tank is already in! I remember when you first ordered everything! I like your style George haha. Thats crazy you had to remove the LFS's front window just to get it out of the store! How much does that 340g weigh empty/filled? Good thing you had those massive suction cups for grip too! Are you going to run a closed loop circuit? What pumps have you decided to go with?

Keep up the great work!

[Lightsluvr]

Thanks for waking up the thread...appreciate the comments and questions...

The tank actually measures out to 359.7 gallons, not including exterior overflow, which holds an additional 13 gallons... (I named the thread 340G because that's what I was told the tank held...)

According to the manufacturer, the tank weighs 750 pounds dry. The steel stand weighs 350 pounds.

The PVC bottom is drilled for a closed loop. It has (2) 1.5" feeds on a 2" manifold, and (5) 1" returns, each using a Pacific Coast Flow Accelerator. The closed loop is powered by a Barracuda Gold pump.

The exterior overflow is plumbed for two 1" returns and four 1.5" overflows. The overflows will be plumbed to supply the follwing:
1.) 100G Rubbermaid sump with DSB and live rock, which gravity feeds to the return chamber of Sump#2
2.) 90G Acrylic sump with Chaeto in center chamber
3.) Reeflo Orca 250 Protein Skimmer
4.) Emergency overflow standpipe, in case one of the Dursos fails or gets clogged

The Overflow and returns are powered by a second Barracuda Gold pump/

With exception of an "automatic" water change system I am building, the two Barracudas will power everything in the tank.

LL

[Lightsluvr]

Let there be light...

On moving day, the guys helped hang my DIY light rack on the track and rail system I built.


Here you can see how the DT extends into the viewing room by 7", giving several different views of the tank. It is not recessed into the wall, which restricts viewing, IMO.


You also see above that the light rack extends through the wall, cantilevered on the rail system.

We had to fire up the lights, just to see how they looked:






The system consists of 24 54W T5 HO bulbs. 12 rows of 2 bulbs from front to back. I selected 2x 54W Adrian Universal Electronic Ballasts, FZ endcaps and standoffs, wired so that each ballast drives one row of bulbs.

LL

[dfurbee]

Wow!! This is an amazing build. Will check in frequently.

[map95003]

Man this is a sweet build...you're building MY dream tank and doing a great job at it
It's good to see you went with all T5 on such a hugh tank, that's a lot of bulbs, keep us posted on your progress. can't wait for the tank to cycle and you start adding stuff...I know it could be a pain updating the thread with pics but don't skip anything, even if you think it's simple stuff we already know...could never stop learning about this stuff.

[Lightsluvr]

Originally Posted by map95003

Man this is a sweet build...you're building MY dream tank and doing a great job at it
It's good to see you went with all T5 on such a hugh tank, that's a lot of bulbs, keep us posted on your progress. can't wait for the tank to cycle and you start adding stuff...I know it could be a pain updating the thread with pics but don't skip anything, even if you think it's simple stuff we already know...could never stop learning about this stuff.

I really don't expect much of a "cycle" - I am using well cured sand and live rock from my existing 120G and 180G tanks...

It will be a direct transfer, starting from when I get the first 10inches or so of saltwater in the DT. Add water, add a base layer of rock from the old tanks... add more water, add another layer of aquascaping...At this point I'll actually be pumping water out of the old tanks and transferring directly to the DT.

When the water is lower in the old tanks, it will be easier to capture the fish for transfer. When the water and aquascaping is adequate in the DT, I will start transferring the fish and inverts...

That's the plan anyway...

LL

[Lightsluvr]

Rough in and dry fit the plumbing:

The system will use two sumps. The first is a 100G Rubbermaid stock tank with a deep sand bed and about 200 pounds of live rock. It will be fed by overflow#1, and will gravity overflow in the return chamber of Sump#2, a 90G acrylic sump that I have modified to allow greater reserve headroom in case the system loses power (no spills!)The 90G will have Macroalgae in its center chamber.
Here are some photos of the equipment plaement:




Here is the Rubbermaid sump up on cinder blocks. I selected the place to cut the overflow - 35.5 inches above the floor. The rim of the acrylic is 34" - giving me a nice gravity feed from #1 to #2.


Another view of the plumbing layout with some of the plumbing dry-fitted and in position:


Looking at the above picture, you will see the (2) Reeflo Barracuda Gold pumps that are the heartbeat of the system.
The one on the left is for the closed loop. It draws water from two 1.5" drains in the tank bottom, and returns the water to five 1" returns that will each have a 1" Pacific Coast flow accelerator on them.
The pump on the right is for the overflow, sumps, filtration and tank returns. It draws water through a 1.5" pipe from the return chamber of the Acrylic sump and returns it to two 1" returns in the exterior overflow on the back of the display tank.
You will note that this exterior overlfow has (4) overflows, each with a separate valve.
From left to right, these overflows are conected as follows:
1. Rubbermaid sump (which them flows into the acrylic sump return chamber)
2. Acrylic sump chamber #1
3. Reeflo Orca 250 skimmer (which also outflows to the acrylic sump return chamber)
4. Emergency standpipe (at tank max level) in event one of the other overflows is clogged, etc. This standpipe also dumps into the acrylic sump return chamber.

Questions? Comments?

LL

[alexech]

If you don't mind me asking, how much money have you invested in everything?

[Lightsluvr]

Originally Posted by alexech

If you don't mind me asking, how much money have you invested in everything?

I don't want to know...

LL

[Lightsluvr]

Finishing in -

Received the custom panels I received for the stand. Similar panels will enclose the space above the tank, so the display will look like a large frame for the tank's "living art" concept...





(Yes, the sides will be enclosed as well...)

For now, these panels are set aside as we rush forward to get the new tank plumbed, filled with water and the contents from other tanks transferred to their new home...

LL

[migget]

Light if i may ask why did you decide to go with t-5's and not halides, i dont rem seeing anything in the thread but i maybe wrong lol.

John

[Lightsluvr]

Originally Posted by migget

Light if i may ask why did you decide to go with t-5's and not halides, i dont rem seeing anything in the thread but i maybe wrong lol.

John

Heat, power and coverage...

Heat - the answer is self-evident.
Power - Probably 2KW with adequate MH vs. 1300W with T5s
Coverage - in a 96 x 36 tank, there would be a lot of "gray" areas between MH refelctors. Not so with the T5 array I designed.

JMHO

LL