[BLKBRDTA]

I noticed it starting to spread out from one central point on a piece of LR. I cleaned off the LR that it started on, but I guess I must have missed the deadline because it spread its spores and is now settling in many locations around my DT. Its not out of control or anything (yet), but I certainly want to get rid of it before it becomes a bigger problem.

The water parameters are right on the money.. however the Phosphates are < 1 ppm, which is probably the cause of this whole problem. Lights are on for 9 1/2 - 10 hours a day.

My question to you fine people is this..: How can I get rid of this the easiest way? I just did a water change a week ago, and am doing another tomorrow.. But it doesn't have much effect on the Phosphates. There is great flow in there, with a 760 gph return pump and a K4 - 1200 gph powerhead, so circulation isn't the issue. I always try and stay away from chemical additives, I just don't agree with them. But I have heard about this Red Slime remover, which you dose and it takes care of the problem within a few days.. Should I or shouldn't I buy it? I will post a poll to help me decide haha.

Here are a few pictures of the plague..:
(My Jeweled Blenny wanted to model his new carpet )
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(Enlarge this image and look at the very small hairs that make this problem spread quickly)

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Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.. I would hope for this thread to become a good reference to another reefer experiencing the same issues. Thanks again ahead of time!

~Tony

[Okayamapiper]

Red slime is cyanobacteria. Slime removers generally contain some type of antibiotic or silver ion. If you want to introduce antibiotics or silver into your system, the slime removers will do the job though there will be some collateral damage to your biological filtration. Another option would be using aluminum oxide (not good for leather corals) or granular iron oxide. RowaPhos is iron oxide and will absorb your phosphates to immeasurable levels thereby starving the cyanobacteria without any negative side effects.

Cheers,
James

[BLKBRDTA]

Hey James thanks for the reply. I understand what your saying with the antibiotics being introduced into the system. They kill off most of the needed anaerobic bacteria and cause a "mini-cycle" due to the shift in stability. I have heard about RowaPhos too, it does help in the removal of the cyano and has less impact on the system. I have also heard that starving the system of supplements for a few weeks and just harvesting the algae as it grows is the best way to make sure it doesn't come back in the future. Along with doing substantial water changes. But basically, a more natural way is always the best way to go. I don't know of any Cyano feasting fish or inverts out there.. does anyone else?

[N9CQB]

My 90g tank had the same issue w cyano & green hair all over the sand & LR. Got Dr F&S Phos Pure + Zeolite & Carbon & put it in a reactor. It brought the Phos down to zero. The hair algae went away but the cyano continued. I bought various hermit crabs & the cyano is gone now.
I hate using ChemiClean (the red slime remover) cause u have to turn off the skimmer. It makes it foam like crazy!

[Okayamapiper]

Tony,

An option would be a sea hare. There are certain varieties known to eat cyano. The hairy sea hare and long-tailed sea hares for example. I had one that did but once it did its job and I put it back to sea.

Cheers,

James

[pogodzib]

I'd start by adding a phosphate remover into your setup first, such as a phosban reactor and phosban or rowaphos. If that doesn't work after a few weeks to months, Chemiclean will work, however, it isn't usually a permanent fix. I wouldn't use any other chemical additive. Just remember, chemicals only hide problems, they don't solve problems.

[BLKBRDTA]

Thanks everyone for all of your help and input. I have decided that the natural way is the route I am going, as it should be. So I will invest in a NextReef MR-1 Shorty PhosBan Reactor to start out with. I will run it for 4 weeks and see if the problem lifts. If it does not, then I will definitely look into purchasing a Cyano specializing Sea Hare. If that still doesn't work, then I guess I will have to resort to using ChemiClean or RowaPhos.. I will keep everyone posted on the updates for how this treatment goes, on this thread so others can use it as a resource. Again, thanks for all the support!

[SkiBum121]

The only problem with the sea hare route is once it's out of food it will waste away, and pollute the tank. I'm sure you knew this, just pointing out for any newbies reading this thinking a sea hare is an easy fix.

[BLKBRDTA]

Originally Posted by SkiBum121

The only problem with the sea hare route is once it's out of food it will waste away, and pollute the tank. I'm sure you knew this, just pointing out for any newbies reading this thinking a sea hare is an easy fix.

You have a good valid point there Ski. I have stopped dosing supplements for 2 weeks now and already have seen a reduction in the spreading. It seems like the Cyanobacteria is consuming a lot of nutrients in the water, and snuffing itself out. That works lol. But in the long run, a PhosBan Reactor would make sure that the problem doesn't rise again..

I will post updated pictures of the progression so you can see the difference.

Thanks for staying tuned into this thread everyone!

[REEFMASTER]

You Can not completely get your Phos down to 0. and besides, 1ppm is not doing any kind of damage. What you did not mention is your water flow, how much are you feeding and what. What Kind of CUC do you have in the Tank. I ran a 2 LIL fishes 150 Phos Reactor, Used the Rowa Granuals and Phos stayed @ 1ppm.

[BLKBRDTA]

Originally Posted by REEFMASTER

You Can not completely get your Phos down to 0. and besides, 1ppm is not doing any kind of damage. What you did not mention is your water flow, how much are you feeding and what. What Kind of CUC do you have in the Tank. I ran a 2 LIL fishes 150 Phos Reactor, Used the Rowa Granuals and Phos stayed @ 1ppm.

I have a 780 GPH return pump on the 50g, with a Koralia #4 powerhead rated at 1,200 GPH. There are no dead spots where supplemements could accumulate, so the flow rate shouldn't be the problem. I do not have a Sea Cucumber in the tank, however we were discussing the possibility of a Sea Hare and the important role it can play in removing the problem. The trick is to keep it fed after it has finished its task. Phosphorus is a natural reoccurring byproduct that is excreted from the living tissue of inhabitants, so you are correct in saying that you can never truly get it to 0ppm. I feed once a day, alternating each day between flakes, pellets, mysis, chopped scallops - calamari - shrimp (for the Anemone) and some Rod's food here and there. I understand the importance of not overfeeding any meaty foods, and even flakes because as they decay in the water, algae blooms usually follow soon after..

Here are some updated pictures as promised.. Before's and After's..

Before seizing the addition of supplements..

2 weeks after seizing the addition of supplements..

Before

After

Before

After

[Okayamapiper]

Here is an enlightening article on phosphate and its effect on saltwater aqauariums. 1ppm won't kill but it certainly inhibits growth. Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

I offered the sea hare as a potential solution as I have used them in the past. I have yet to have one starve as I take them back to the beach once they have finished their job or to a pet shop for credit. I believe Tony is on the right track as evidenced by his photos. Nutrient control and good maintenance will reward the caretaker with healthy and happy stock.