[dbirdsong]

I am starting to get it in my tank. I took my water sample to LFS, and they said it tested to be ok . What is causing it and how do I get rid of it.

[ilovemash]

Did they test for phosphates?

[dbirdsong]

Yes, they are high. About 5 ppm. I went to LFS and got some phos-zorb. Hope it works.

[e_baer]

Try to increase water flow and get your water quality a little better. That should do the trick, if not there are a few other methods, but I would try those first.

[ilovemash]

That could easily be the cause I believe. Like Elliot said if you don't have enough flow get some and take care of those params, maybe even do a water change!

[rlcline76]

And get your own tests. I like a few of the LFS guys around here but would rather be in charge of testing my own water.

[dbirdsong]

I had to get my own test for phosphate test. Turned out they did not test that. They tested for nitrate, nitrite ammonia, and ph. They all tested fine, but phosphates were high. As far as water movement I have two power filters own a 28 gallon tank one moves 250 gph and the other mves 150 gph. Do I need more?

[e_baer]

Might want to throw in another 150-250 gph powerhead for some extra flow.

[dbirdsong]

Where should I locate the power head. Should the outlet point to the surface or across the reef or toward the bottom of the tank.

[msbdiving]

I have tried blue vet's red slime remover and it worked for me. I also use chemipure and that polishes things a bit. As for the root of the problem, what water source are you using and how long are the lights on?

[dbirdsong]

My lights are on about 12 hours a day. I have a 50/50 pc 65watts and a 17 watt superdaylight flouresent on a 28g. It's right at 3 watts per gallon. I use tap water. I tested it before I put it in the tank, and it showed no phasphates.

[msbdiving]

I personally think the lights are on a little long. Try about 10 hrs max. What is your bio-load, substrate, skimming/filtration, feeding like. I am curious if it was you that tested the tap water for phosphates or the store. If it was the store that did the test was it done specifically for phosphates? I still believe a ro/di system is the way to go. I tried the tap water route when I first started and was surprised at how much junk was in there when I used the TDS meter.

Another possibility to keep in mind, sand an rock absorbs phosphates. It would be good to know from what sort of system and how clean it was when you got it.

[dbirdsong]

I have two damsels, two clown fish, and a firefish. There are eight blue legged hermits, nine turbo snails, and 3 nassarius snails. I have one condy anemone, and one seabae anemone. Also there are a few polyps and mushroom corals. The polyps and mushrooms are multiplying. The only thing that seem to showing stress is the seabae. I have about thirty pounds of rock and a sand substrate. I use a skilter and turn on the skimmer part at night. It skims a yellow liquid most nights. I also have live amphipods in my dump tray some mornings. I put some phos-zorb in my tank Saterday and my phosphates have dropped to .25 ppm. Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, ph, and salinity have been good.

[msbdiving]

With the exception of the sessile livestock, you have a larger bio load than I do in a smaller tank. I don't know if that is the prob or not. Maybe a weekly water change and run the skimmer 24/7 would help.

[dbirdsong]

This is my tank.[IMG][/IMG]

[kenpa]

my phosphates are .o2% using a Hannah tester. have two middle of the line skimmers on my 180. Do a 30 gal water change [about 25% of availalbe water], each week or two. using 6 T5 tubes for light. I seem to have licked my long standing green algae problem but now red algae is starting to creep in. Some of my Austrailians are starting to suffer. I used Blue Vet Red Slime control about 2 years ago and it really really worked. Only trouble is it killed about 50% of my corals. Call me stupid but I am thinking about trying it again at a quarter dose this time