[saltylee]

i have been doing alot of research lately and this is how i think i want to set up my 100 gal reef.i have a 55 gal. that i "learned the basics" on. but, i am by no means anything more than a novice.

i have read alot about t5 lighting, and have choosen them over mh. initially i want to use an icecap retro-fit kit. the kit is sold on reefgeek.com and is a " 60" 4x80w slr t5 very high-output retro-fit kit w/bulbs." (sorry couldn't figure out how to add a hyperlink) i am really not sure this is enough light but i plan on leaving enough space between the bulbs to add three more or possibly four later. i really hope i dont need a chiller
(highest room temp. 76-78 degrees)

i have a crude illustration of my sump and plumbing but have no idea about pump size or pipe dia.

oh yeah, tank size is 60"L 20"H. is this an odd size because i cant find any t5 light fixtures and just one site with retro fit in a 60"

i am totally sold on plenums and dsb's for nnr and in my sump i want to use LR rubble(instead of bio balls) in somthing like a trikle filter set up. the main tank will have appx. 100 lbs. of LR and a dsb. or plenum (not sure which yet).

any advice would be greatly appreciated!! i have been back and fourth on many issues and would like some input before i start buying all this stuff.

[saltylee]

forget the picture i had trouble up loading

[demonsquirt]

Any powerheads? I would get atleast 20 times exchange.

You say you have a 55 already and know the basics. If you do then great if you dont this upgrade could get expensive.Mind if i ask,
Whats the water source?
Water readings you test for and there levels?
Whats used for water movement?

[saltylee]

water source: i use only my own R/O water, but before i start the 100 i am going to take a sample to my lfs and have them test it to see if the membrane is still in good condition.

Water parameters: my 55 is not running anymore but for tests concerning the nitrogen cycle the readings where zero after cycling the tank. as for ph i don't remember the reading but it was always in the safe zone. i only kept a few different types of polyps in the tank(other than fish, and a clean-up crew) so i really didn't get into testing for calcium, iodine, etc.
i relied on my salt mix and weekly water changes to supply the right balance of elements to the water. i am sure with a true reef tank i will need to test for a whole battery of things.

circulation: this, like lighting and plumbing, i am comletely new to. my 55 had no overflow, therefore no sump, therefore i no nothing about pump sizes or plumbing. i used powerheads to circulate the water(3 powerheads circulating about 8 times the tank volume per hour)

my old 55 will serve as a sump/refugium to the 100. i would like to use the return pump for most of my circulation but i was originally only shooting for about 15 times the volume per hour. oops! i need some new power heads! wasn't expecting 2000 gallons per hour. when you figure circulation do you include the volume in the sump as well?

i am not good enough to quote water parameters or even know what acceptable limits are yet. i have to read the instuctions in the test kit to be sure. but in the past, i would study the specimen and its particular needs before i threw it in the tank. if it required something i generally didn't test for, i would either avoid the purchase or get what i needed to keep an eye on the new parameter.

[demonsquirt]

You need to test the tank water on a rgular basis. Nitrate and nitrite and ammonia and PH and salinity and ALk and DKh and Phosphate. You may need 2 inexpensive test kits. RO water will work fine at first but get the DI part asap.