[SantaMonica]

Part 1 of 2:


Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

Are you tired of green on your rocks? Do you have to clean your glass more than once a week? Well then I'm sure you've been told (or you've figured out) that your Nitrate and/or Phosphate are too high. Sure enough, if these are too high, the green starts growing. Phosphate is the important one: If you can detect any phosphate at all with a hobby test kit (like Salifert), then it's high enough to cause algae to grow. So, what can you do?

Build an algae filter screen, that's what you can do. An algae filter screen, also known as a turf algae filter, a turf scrubber, or an algae scrubber, basically filters the water clean of nitrate and phosphate so that the green on your rocks and glass goes away. It does this by "moving" the growth of the algae from the tank to a "screen" outside of the tank. The idea is that you create a better growing environment on the screen than occurs in the tank, so that the algae grows on the screen instead. It works great!

Here's what you can expect: If you build your algae filter properly, your nitrate and phosphate will be incredibly low, sometimes unmeasureable by hobby test kits, within four weeks. I use Salifert test kits, and the readings I get are "clear" (zero) for both the Nitrate and the Phosphate tests. This is what you want. If you have been trying to get this yourself, then an algae filter is for you.

Here is my Algae Filter in a 5-gallon bucket; it's the only filter I have (other than the live rock) on my 100 gallon reef:




Here is the filter in operation with the lights on:




Here is my tank:


Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/WholeTank.jpg
Video: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/WholeTank08-11-08.mpg


And here are the only things you need to build a bucket version of this filter:




My nitrate and phosphate are zero (clear on Salifert test kits), and the only thing in my sump is water. I removed the skimmer, carbon, phosban, polyfilter(s), and filtersock; I don't use ozone, vodka, zeo or anything else. I'm feeding massive amounts too; enough that if I had my previous filtering setup, I'd have to clean the glass twice a day, and everything in the tank would be covered in green or brown algae. Amazing.

The only thing you need to decide on is how big your algae filter screen needs to be, and if you want it to be in your tank's hood, or in a bucket, or in your sump. The basic rule is one square inch of screen for each gallon of tank water, if the screen it lit on both sides; the screen size should be twice this if the screen is lit up on just one side. A 12 X 12 inch screen, lit both sides, = 144 square inches = 144 gal tank; a 7 X 7 inch screen lit both sides = 49 gal tank; a 6 X 6 lit both sides = 36 gal tank. Algae filters get really small as you can see. A 12 gal nano tank needs just 3 X 4 inches! This small thing can replace the skimmer, refugium, phosphate removers, nitrate removers, carbon, filtersocks, and waterchanges, IF THE PURPOSE of these devices is to reduce nitrate and phosphate. If these devices have any other purpose, then they can't be replaced. If your tank is bigger than a 75, then just start with a 5 gallon bucket size and see how it goes. You can always add a second one, or build a bigger one later.

My example bucket version takes about 4 hours to build. Water goes in the pvc pipe at the top, flows down over the screen, then drains out the bottom. That's it! Oh, and it has clip-on lights. I can feed the tank a lot of food, and anything not eaten by the corals or fish eventually ends up as algae on the screen.


Here are some examples of DIY algae filter screens already built, from a simple nano one:








to larger ones:
















Here are some advantages of an algae filter:


o Allows you to feed very high amounts without causing nuisance algae growth in the tank.

o Can replace waterchanges, IF THE PURPOSE of the waterchange is to reduce nitrate or
phosphate or algae growth. Otherwise, it does not replace the water change.

o Grows swarms of copepods.

o Increases pH.

o Increases oxygen.

o Will NOT spread algae into the tank. It removes algae FROM the tank.

o There is no odor from the algae (only a slight ocean smell when cleaning it).

o Is very quiet when flowing, similar to a tabletop decorative waterfall.

o Introduces no microbubbles when adjusted.

o Removes ammonia too.

o You can even make a portable bucket! Just unplug the lights, lift up the pump
out of the tank water, and go put it in your next tank (or your friend's tank).
Don't let the screen dry out though.

o Works in saltwater or freshwater.

[SantaMonica]

Part 2 of 2:


How to build it:

First, get your screen. Any stiff material that has holes in it, like knitting backing, plastic canvas, rug canvas, gutter guard, or tank-divider will do. Try going to hardware stores, craft stores, garden stores, sewing stores, or just get one of these online (in order of preference):

Crafts, Etc! ® - 33400-1 Plastic Canvas - 5 Mesh
3.75- & 5-mesh Rug Canvas Assortment, 5 Pieces
Aquatic Eco-Systems: Tank Dividers

Don't use window screen though. The main problem with this kind of "soft" screen will be getting it to hold its shape; it will bend and fold too much. Stiff screen is easier to make stay put, and easier to clean.

If you have a nano with a filter hatch on top of the hood, then it's super easy: Just cut a piece of screen to replace the sponge filter, and put it where the sponge filter went. Leave the hatch open, an set a strong light on it, facing down directly on the screen. This is a good bulb to get; it will be bright enough to power the screen, and to light up your nano too:

23 Watt R40 Compact Fluorescent Flood 5100K Full Spectrum CFL

If your nano does not have a filter hatch on top of the hood, or if you have a regular tank, then here are the larger versions:








The first and main thing to consider is the flow to the screen. You need about 35 gph (gallons per hour) for every inch of width of the screen. Thus, a 2" wide screen would need 70 gph, and so on. Here is a chart:

Screen Width-----Gallons Per Hour (GPH)

1" 35
2" 70
3" 105
4" 140
5" 175
6" 210
7" 245
8" 280
9" 315
10" 350
11" 385
12" 420
13" 455
14" 490
15" 525
16" 560
17" 595
18" 630
19" 665
20" 700


Note that it does not matter how tall your screen is, just how wide it is. Let's start with an overflow feed: In this case the amount of flow is pre-determined by how much is overflowing; the maximum flow you'll get to the screen will be what's going through your overflow now. This is easy to figure out by counting how many seconds it takes your overflow to fill a one-gallon jug:

60 seconds = 60 gph
30 seconds = 120 gph
15 seconds = 240 gph
10 seconds = 360 gph
8 seconds = 450 gph
5 seconds = 720 gph


Take this gph number that you end up with, and divide by 35, to get the number of inches wide the screen should be. For example, if your overflow was 240 gph, then divide this by 35 to get 6.8 (or just say 7) inches. So your screen should be 7 inches wide. How tall should it be? As tall as can fit into the area you have, and, as tall as your light bulbs will cover. But how tall it is not as important as how wide it is.

Pump feeds: Since with a pump you have control over the flow, start with the size screen you can fit into your space. If the screen will go into your sump, then measure how wide that screen will be. If the screen will go into a bucket, then measure how wide that screen will be. Take the width you get, and multiply by 35 to get the gph you need. For example if you can fit a 10 inch wide screen into your sump or bucket, then multiply 10 by 35 to get 350 gph. Thus your pumps needs to deliver 350 gph to the screen.

You can construct your setup using any method you like. The only difficult part is the "waterfall pipe", which must have a slot cut lengthwise into it where the screen goes into it. Don't cut the slot too wide; just start with 1/8", and you can increase it later if you need to, based on the flow you get. I used a Dremel moto-tool with a "cut off wheel":




Now install the pipe onto the screen/bucket by tilting the pipe and starting at one side, then lowering the pipe over the rest. You may have to wiggle the screen in some places to get it to fit in:




Lighting: This is the most important aspect of the whole thing. You must, must, have strong lighting. I'll list again the bulb I listed above:

23 Watt R40 Compact Fluorescent Flood 5100K Full Spectrum CFL

... This the minimum you should have on BOTH sides of your screen. You can get even higher power CFL bulbs, or use multiple bulbs per side, for screens larger than 12 X 12 inches, or for tanks with higher waste loads. The higher the power of the lighting on the screen, the more nitrate and phosphate will be pulled out of the tank, and faster too.

Operation:

Regardless of which version you build, the startup process is the same. First, clean the screen with running tap water (no soap) while scrubbing it with something abrasive. Then dry it off and sand it with sandpaper on both sides. Then get some algae (any type) from your system and rub it HARD into the screen on both sides, as deep and as hard as you can. Then run tap water over the screen to remove the loose algae pieces; you won't see the spores that stick... they are too small, but they are there. Don't forget this algae rubbing part... it will speed up the start of your screen by a few days. Install the screen and turn on the water.

You can leave the light on for 24 hours for the first week if you want to speed up the process; otherwise just put it on a timer for 18 hours ON, and 6 hours OFF. You will see absolutely nothing grow for the first two days. On day 3 you'll start seeing some growth, and by day 5 most of the screen should have a light brown coating. If this level of growth does not happen on your screen, your lighting is probably not strong enough, or it's not close enough to the screen. Increase the bulb power, or move it closer.

When the screen looks something like this:




...then you want to give it it's first cleaning, on ONE SIDE only. Take the screen to the sink, run tap water on it, and just push the algae off with your fingers (not fingernails):



Wait a week, and clean the other side, gently. Wait another week and clean the first side again, etc. After a while you'll have to press harder to get the tougher algae off, and after a few months you'll probably need to scrape it with something, and it may eventually get so strong that you'll need a razor blade to scrape it off. But for now, be gentle; you always want some algae to remain on the screen when you are done. NEVER clean it off completely.

Don't forget to test your Nitrate and Phosphate before you start your filter, and each day after. I use Salifert:

Salifert Test Kits

Post your pics of how you build it, the growth day by day, and your nitrate and phosphate readings, so we can all see how you are doing!

[unclejed]

I have to say that is the most intriguing concept I've seen! Thank you santa for the post. In reality it's like a suspended fuge, I will try it on my biocube. Thanks again!

[Proud Texan]

WOW this is a very detailed and informative post. This should get a sticky or something so everybody wont need to dig in the forums to find it. Defiantly something to consider putting on a tank.

[Hosser]

makes alot of sense. I saved this thread to my avorites for future possible set up

[SantaMonica]

Wow folks glad you like it. Can't wait for pics and details of your versions.

[jimw369]

If you guys would look in your profiles I posted this link in your profiles and described what it was about several weeks ago.

Its a turf scrubber and been around since the beginning of time. Will it work yes. Is it a pain yes. Getting rid of your skimmer remains to be seen. I would suggest reading on some other forums where this is already being tried and watch the results those people are having unless you really want to try this for the fun of it.

Thanks for Posting Santa Monica. I was wondering when you would get around to us.

[jimw369]

Santa Monica...

With that being said could you tell us something about your self? Whats the motivation for posting this all over the salt sites? Not being critical here. I actually encouraged some friends here to read this when I was first reading your post several weeks ago.

Welcome to reef builders!

[SantaMonica]

Each site has it's own readers, so I have to go where the people dwell.

I started reefing without any knowledge by hiring a maintanance man to design, setup, stock, maintain, and even feed a 90 custom bowfront reef in our office (by my desk!) in January 2006. Was the most visible guy in our part of Los Angeles. Well his version of knowledge was a SG of .040, no acclimation, a flow of 100gph for a 90, and taping his business card to the display for folks in other offices to see. The cleaner shrimp he threw in would freeze dead before they hit the sand. So nothing alive in the tank yet, and it was hard asking him questions when he would not show up for three weeks at a time. Fired him and looked for a replacement (he is still being recommended by a LFS.)

From a referral from another LFS, found a guy "doing this for 20 years", who actually did know proper SG. He recommended a tank rebuild and re-drilling to get more flow. Well he was good at showing up once a week on schedule, and changing 30% water. But he was missing some small things, like cleaning any of the mechanical filters, or, setting the skimmer so it would produce anything at all. He actually did get some corals and fish into the tank, however, so I kept him for a year. Then I started reading forums . Here are some other flaws I found: Sand bed was not deep enough to be DSB; his nitrate test kit was years old and always showed "zero"; mixed up the SW one hour before bringing it for a WC; set flow to only 350gph (for a 90); never vacuumed sand; never blew detritus off rocks; never checked pH; added bioballs in the overflow to "make it "quiet"; did not know how much feeding was "overfeeding". Well, with so much import and almost no export, the tank and sandbed crashed in just 12 months. I took some water (that my guy said had zero N) to the LFS, and they said N was 100, and P was 3. The tank glass had needed cleaning twice a day, and no wonder. So I fired him too.

Just now learning some basics, In August 2007 I went lights-offs, and changed the parameters to best do an in-tank cooking of the rock. A few months later things were better, So I slowly added light and one damsel. Things progressed nicely, except I could never get zero N and P, and I could never get the algae off the rock and back wall (was covered in green). So my focus became nutrient removal. I did the mesh mod to my Euroreef CSS-8, experimented with the position, flow, everything. Then two things happend: First, I read that skimmers do NOT remove inorganic N and P, at all. Second, I was reading up on "display refugiums" that I could use, which would look cool with seahorses, and which would reduce N and P too. But someone commenting on them said "if you are doing this just to remove N and P, just use a scrubber... it's the most powerful way to remove nutrients, and you may not even need your skimmer".

Ah! So I scratch built my first scrubber in a bucket, bought a pre-grown screen from Inland Aquatics in Indiana (USA), and hooked it up. Day 1: skimmer dies! Turns out the plasic from the bucket causes this, but I did not know, so I just unplugged the skimmer and let the bucket run. Day 2, 3, 4... N and P were steadily dropping. Day 7: Zero!! Zero N and P, and with no skimmer! So I picked myself up off the floor, and here I am now.

[Hosser]

Hey Jim I didnt see where it was posted in my profile before but as yo know Im not the brightest person about this site.
I do have a question on it though.... even though the screen makes for a more ideal place to grow the algae what is keeping it from the main tank? The rest of the set up makes logical sense for the most part but the keeping it from the main tank is still eluding me a bit.
Does this system tend to cause any problems at all, or what is soem things to look for as a caution if it is set up?

[SantaMonica]

The algae that grows on the screen will not "spread" to the tank. You already have spores of algae in your tank right now as you read this, including green hair, green slime, and red/brown turf algae. But without enough light (and in the case of turf, flow and air), they will not grow. Algae grows first where it has the most light. You can test this right now by getting a strong light and aiming it at one corner of your tank, at the top where the waterline is. You will start developing green algae there in one day, but it won't cause "more" of the algae to spread to the rest of your tank.

That's the first part of how a screen works: It's just more light, out of the tank. The second part of a screen's operation is the turbulent flow across the screen; this brings many more nutrients in contact with the screen than just regular tank flow does. Lastly, if you are doing a vertical screen with a pump, and you put a wavemaker timer on the pump (on, off, on, off), then the "off" time will simulate the time between real waves in the ocean, which breaks up the "boundary layer" around the algae. This boundary layer slows down the passage of nutrients from the water to the algae. This last step (pulsing the water) is very important if you are going to want the true stiff red/brown turf algae, since real turf lives out-of-the-water (on rocks, pylons, etc).

[SantaMonica]

Things to look out for: Over-cooling, too-high pH, loose hoses that could empty your tank onto the floor.

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by hosser

Hey Jim I didnt see where it was posted in my profile before but as yo know Im not the brightest person about this site.
I do have a question on it though.... even though the screen makes for a more ideal place to grow the algae what is keeping it from the main tank? The rest of the set up makes logical sense for the most part but the keeping it from the main tank is still eluding me a bit.
Does this system tend to cause any problems at all, or what is soem things to look for as a caution if it is set up?

You belong to a public group that we both belong to along with several others here. Click on that and you will see 2-3 things Ive been trying to keep up on.

[SantaMonica]

Reminder Of The Day:

What Scrubbers Consume: Algae scrubbers consume INORGANIC nitrate and phosphate. These things are what your test kits read, and what the nuisance algae on your rocks and glass require to live. What scrubbers don't consume is ORGANIC nitrate and phosphate. Organic nitrate and phosphate have another name: Food. Any and every piece of food you put into your tank has nitrate and phosphate in them, but they are organic. Scrubbers leave them in the water for the corals to eat. Skimmers do the opposite: Skimmers remove the organic nitrate and phosphate (food), and leave in the inorganic nitrate and phosphate; these inorganics are then used by the nuisance algae on your rocks and glass to grow.

[geekdafied]

Its funny reading your thread at RC about this. Especially the part where you were telling mod's to ban people who disagreed with you.

Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build

Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, and Everything Else

you didnt get the answer you liked there, so you brought it over here and some other forums?

What is your motive behind this?

[SantaMonica]

Its funny reading your thread at RC about this. Especially the part where you were telling mod's to ban people who disagreed with you.

You mean the people who were making personal attacks at me, and my family members? Yes, I wanted the mods to curtail (not ban) them. But personal attacks are allowed on RC, read them for yourself. By the way, I first pm'd the four mods for that forum about the problem; not one replied.

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by geekdafied

Its funny reading your thread at RC about this. Especially the part where you were telling mod's to ban people who disagreed with you.

Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build

Mega-Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover Replaces Skimmer, Refugium, and Everything Else

you didnt get the answer you liked there, so you brought it over here and some other forums?

What is your motive behind this?

Hey Hey Hey! Geek! Ive already asked that question! lol.

Im waiting for some others to chime in here and throw some questions on the table about the turf scrubber.

[Hosser]

Sorry Geek I do not believe we have had the pleasure so please dont take this the wrong way. I think if someone feels strongly about something and they think people should know then so be it. Its not up to you or I if some of us think this would work its not up to you to try an get others to disbelieve something without trying it.
He isnt trying to make money he isnt trying to sell something, he posted in many forums evidently because he feels strongly about it.
Just because you dont use one or feel they dont work doesnt mean they wont for someone. I for one dont apreciate someone trashing a thread one that in common sense is well thought out and very descriptive. Its a thread in a forum dont like it because of wrong or info that will mislead then yes please chime in but this has no ill intent nor is it something you can say doesnt work to some extent.

[jimw369]

When did you hook up an ATS to your tank and what were the results. I am assuming with this seemingly exhaustive and detailed explanation of ATS you kept pretty good records of all water params and pictures of the tank this was employed on. Would it be possible to see some pics and review the records kept?


Please forgive me if I seem to be "leary" of your claims. When some one makes these claims:

My nitrate and phosphate are zero (clear on Salifert test kits), and the only thing in my sump is water. I removed the skimmer, carbon, phosban, polyfilter(s), and filtersock; I don't use ozone, vodka, zeo or anything else. I'm feeding massive amounts too; enough that if I had my previous filtering setup, I'd have to clean the glass twice a day, and everything in the tank would be covered in green or brown algae. Amazing.


:I think a need for scrutiny applies.

Did you ever find what was causing these excessive nutrients in your tank and what did you do to get rid of them? While ATS does work to some degree IMO an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[SantaMonica]

See page 1 for pics at week number four. I used a pre-grown screen and in one week my N and P reached zero. Zero N and P, by the way, is common for tanks that use scrubbers by themselves (built and used properly, of course). Here's the story...

I started reefing without any knowledge by hiring a maintanance man to design, setup, stock, maintain, and even feed a 90 custom bowfront reef in our office (by my desk!) in January 2006. Was the most visible guy in our part of Los Angeles. Well his version of knowledge was a SG of .040, no acclimation, a flow of 100gph for a 90, and taping his business card to the display for folks in other offices to see. The cleaner shrimp he threw in would freeze dead before they hit the sand. So nothing alive in the tank yet, and it was hard asking him questions when he would not show up for three weeks at a time. Fired him and looked for a replacement (he is still being recommended by a LFS.)

From a referral from another LFS, found a guy "doing this for 20 years", who actually did know proper SG. He recommended a tank rebuild and re-drilling to get more flow. Well he was good at showing up once a week on schedule, and changing 30% water. But he was missing some small things, like cleaning any of the mechanical filters, or, setting the skimmer so it would produce anything at all. He actually did get some corals and fish into the tank, however, so I kept him for a year. Then I started reading forums . Here are some other flaws I found: Sand bed was not deep enough to be DSB; his nitrate test kit was years old and always showed "zero"; mixed up the SW one hour before bringing it for a WC; set flow to only 350gph (for a 90 reef); never vacuumed sand; never blew detritus off rocks; never checked pH; added unscreened bioballs in the overflow to "make it "quiet"; did not know how much feeding was "overfeeding". And on. Well, with so much import and almost no export, the tank and sandbed crashed in just 12 months. I took some water (that my guy said had zero N) to the LFS, and they said N was 100, and P was 3. The tank glass had needed cleaning twice a day, and no wonder. So I fired him too.

Having just then learned some basics, In August 2007 I went lights-offs, and changed the parameters to best do an in-tank cooking of the rock. A few months later things were better, So I slowly added light and one damsel. Things progressed nicely, except I could never get zero N and P, and I could never get the algae off the rock and back wall (every inch was covered in green). So my focus became nutrient removal. I did the mesh mod to my Euroreef CSS-8, experimented with the position, flow, everything. Then two things happend: First, I read that skimmers do NOT remove Inorganic N and P, at all. Second, I was reading up on "display refugiums" that I could use, which would look cool with seahorses, and which would reduce N and P too. But someone commenting on them said "if you are doing this just to remove N and P, just use a scrubber... it's the most powerful way to remove nutrients, and you may not even need your skimmer".

Ah! So I scratch built my first scrubber in a bucket, bought a pre-grown screen from Inland Aquatics in Indiana (USA), and hooked it up. Day 1: skimmer dies! Turns out the plasic from the bucket causes this, but I did not know this, so I just unplugged the skimmer and let the bucket run. Day 2, 3, 4... N and P were steadily dropping. Day 7: Zero!! Zero N and P, and with no skimmer! So I picked myself up off the floor, and here I am now.

[jimw369]

I still need the questions answered that I posted previously along with a picture of the tank with the ATS operating on it. Sorry I wasnt clear on this in my earlier post and just said tank pics.

I would like to keep the thread alive as I think there is some good to be gleaned from it but we first need to establish your credibility having tried the ATS on a designated system or your own personal one otherwise you are repeating what others have written before or is conjecture on your part.

And yes for the record so you dont have to say it again...Inland Aquatics in Indiana is the only place you can buy pre grown TS screens.

[SantaMonica]

Try reading my post again.