[sgarron]

Ok, I was thinking my original design had way too much heat going into the system. Here is another idea using 2 Iwaki external pumps. By the way are the Iwaki's better than the Mag's? And which one's are quieter?

How low should the holes be drilled on the sump?

[mtfabel]

I dont know if you are aware of this but the Mag Drive pumps can be run external also. I am not sure which one is quiter, but if I had to guess I would say that the Mags are. Considering the 200 dollar price differnece between the Mag Drive 700 and the Iwaki 40RLT I would go with the Mags. Seeing as both pumps are almost the same in GPH.

[sgarron]

Thanks, after some more thought and re-assesment of fundsThis is what I'm looking at.

[glampka]

Steve,
I found another pump, Quiet Ones - they are cheaper than the Mags & use less power. Not sure of performance though.

[sgarron]

Gary,

Thanks, I looked them up and found mostly negative things about them. I think I'll stick with the Danner Mags.

[glampka]

Me too - I'm planning out my 55 build with sump/refugium. Initially was going to get the Mag 7 but now I'm leaning towards the Mag 9.5

[sgarron]

Gary, What do you think Mag12 or 18? Keep in mind that 6 outlet manifold. The over flow max is 1400GPH

[mtfabel]

Id go with the 18 and just tee off and put a valve on one of the tees to regulate how much you pump back into the tank.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Evert time you redo the plan I like it better.Remember to avoid useing regular elbows especially on the intake side of the pump.To avoid cavitation use street elbows,they sort of round out the turn that the water makes and if you have room use sweeps,they will stop any chance of micro bubbles in the tank.

[sgarron]

Nativevaman,

I was thinking about using flexible tubing fron the overflow to the sump. That would mean no elbows, just soft sweeping bends. Do you see any problems with that idea? Also,
I called Lifereef to change my order to a double overflow. They are out and won't be making anymore until Sept. or Oct. But they offered me 2 singles for the price of a double. That should work too. At least it will be more symmetrical in the display tank. One overflow on each side and nothing else.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I dont see a problem useing any kind of pipe you want from the overflow to the sump.Its on the intake to that 12 or 1400 gph pump that worries me.thats where sweeps and street elbows become important.I guess two overflows is as good as one.

[sgarron]

I only have 2 options to connect from the bulkhead to the pump. I could use a 1" threaded elbow screwed into the bulkhead and piped straight into the pump. Or, I could use a straight 1' threaded to barbed fitting and gently sweep flexible tubing to the pump. Actually there will be a union ball valve connected directly to the pump and the pipe or tubing will connect to the valve. Which would be better?

[NATIVEVAMAN]

I dont think a union valve will fit directly on the pump,its going to take a short piece of pipe.The tubing will work from the pump up to the manifold.If your pumps are going to be in the water you wont have to worry about intake plumbing,if there out of the water you will need to hard plumb the pump.Thats where the sweeps and street "L"'s are important.In terms of the total flow(if you actually get 1400 gph) you will have 21x the tank volume which is good.What I am having trouble getting my mind around is the 233 gph thru each of the outlets in the manifold.In terms of total turbulance thats not much.Some sort of restriction may be needed at the exits.Either by the use of loc lines or you could take short pieces of pipe,put one end in boiling water and squeeze it down with pliers.When it cools it will retain its shape.I like the loc lines better as they give you directional control.The last major hurdle in this system is:if the pumps go out you will have one of the worlds most efficient siphons.One resolution would be to use a check valve in the line between pump and the manifold.The other resolution would be to make sure all the water that could be siphoned will fit in the sump.Or both.The siphon will break when it reach's the highest exit in the manifold.In your drawing it shows the entire flow from one of your overflows going to the fuge.I think 700 gph to the fuge is way to much.Consider useing a 1/2 "T" off one drain line with a ball valve to get the flow to the fuge down to around 50/100 gph.

[sgarron]

You mean something like this? Coming off the bulkhead I can fit a sweep then into the pump, I'll hard plumb as much as I can. The pump is actually rated at 1800 GPH, I know I won't get that at 4' plus all the elbows in the manifold, but it should be enough. Off the manifold I was going to attach 45's only abiut an inch or so into the water, this should prevent syphoning problems.

[glampka]

Hi Steve,
I agree with mtf - go with the 18. You'll need it to push the water through the manifold.

[sgarron]

I did. I ordered it this morning.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

If you have a bulkhead in your return section of the sump that is where you want to use a sweep or street L.Between your bulkhead and the pump intake.

[sgarron]

that's exactly where it's going. Thanks