[mblock]

I am just getting back into the hobby after about a 20 year absence. In walking around stores I am seeing things and "animals" that were unavailable or impossible to keep in the years when I was into the hobby (approximately1970 - 1990). Multiple questions are in my head but for now, what is a refugium and why do I need one? It seems to be something people are mentioning and it seems like an all purpose filter, skimmer, etc. Also, I am not at home for extended periods, up to 3 weeks. Is a controller e.g. "Aquacontroller", a good investment?

[Tonz of fun]

I would never leave my tank for 3 weeks. So much can happen...

[mblock]

I know and that's the problem. I would try to find someone to check up and 3 weeks would be the extreme. Only happened once before--but 2 weeks is not out of the question.

I'm thinking of getting something in the 80 - 100 gallon size with as much automation as possible. Nevertheless I am concerned, hence the original question.

All thoughts, comments, criticisms, etc are welcome, and in fact, encouraged.

[Tonz of fun]

Well I would suggest getting the biggest tank you can afford. I know that sounds weird but if a fish dies and your not home it will take much longer because of the water volume. You will have to get all the extras. Large sump with refuigium, water top off, auto feeders, everything.

[msbdiving]

Welcome Mark, I was just down in your neck of the woods about two month ago. I agree with tonz. The larger the tank, the more stability it will offer. It takes longer for fatal problems to surface but gives you more time to correct them. However, I would strongly caution not leaving it for three weeks at a time without supervision. I know there are aquarium services that are offered down near our area. I am sure they would be able to check in on the tank for a fee of course.

[glampka]

There are ATO units to handle evaporation but I've heard horror stories of them failing & wiping out the entire system by adding too much water or causing a flood. You also have to consider what happens with a power outage. Feeding a balanced diet automatically would be a challenge as well unless you had someone doing it for you.

[jvharding]

Originally Posted by mblock

I know and that's the problem. I would try to find someone to check up and 3 weeks would be the extreme. Only happened once before--but 2 weeks is not out of the question.

I'm thinking of getting something in the 80 - 100 gallon size with as much automation as possible. Nevertheless I am concerned, hence the original question.

All thoughts, comments, criticisms, etc are welcome, and in fact, encouraged.

I am not sure a reef tank is a good idea for someone that is away for extended periods just catching up on routine chores is overwhelming. A reef requires constant care and observation. I went away for the weekend to come home to pile of bones of a perfectly healthy fish before I left. something devoured a 4 inch fish in a matter of days, but if it was left to rot could have killed my whole system. This is a expensive hobby. Think Long and Hard about this Decision!

[mblock]

I'm sensing a trend here. I like the idea of having a service come in when I'm gone for a couple of weeks. Would the appropriate amount be once or twice a week?

Also, any thoughts on the other parts of my question? The equipment issue is really confusing to me given that when I was previously involved, we pretty much made our own tanks, filters (ungravel and external and then added commercial pumps), UV sterilizers and such. Not much market equipment available then, but now the choices are almost overwhelming. Any good books or web info out there? I see there are some pages on this forum but I have not yet had the time to read them.

Thanks again for any insight.

[Tonz of fun]

Protein skimmers are most important. Get a good one. Go with a sump/refugium, it adds to your water volume and will halp you keep your levels low. I would have someone check my tank every 2 days.

[SweeTang22]

any thoughts on what size of a tank you want to do? when you figure it out, get a protein skimmer for a tank twice the size or yours. this will keep your tank clean and help prevent a buildup of DOC's! just to be on the safe side i would mix a big vat of saltwater before you leave, keep it airated with a powerhead or something, and then when you get home, do a big 25% water change. this will also help just in case the crew you have is doing a half ass job!

[mblock]

Based on what I have seen on the web page so far, I am considering something in the neighborhood of 80 to 100 gallons. A sump and fuge appear to be a requirement as well as a protein skimmer capable of dealing with approximately twice the size of the aquarium.

Am I correct in assuming the sump would be approximately half the size of the aquarium? Can I put the fuge and the protein skimmer in the sump? It also seems as if the fuge obviates the need for a “filter”. Is that correct?

Pictures I have seen show a light requirement for the fuge and I am wondering how many watts that should be? Will such a light be sufficient to heat the water or is a heater still necessary?

I have also seen, in pictures of other aquariums on this web site, additional power heads placed in the tank, presumably for circulation. This may seem silly but I am wondering where the “power” in power head comes from. Are we talking about the main circulating pump driving the power heads or are they, the haeds, just electric driven propellers, if you will, that move water independent of the main circulation device? While I am thinking about it, is turning over the water in the tank two times per hour sufficient or is a larger pump necessary?

Incidentally, I’m assuming approximately 1 pound of substrate, perhaps a mixture of live sand and regular sand, in the tank for each gallon and approximately 3/4 of a pound of live rock per gallon. Are the same ratios appropriate for the sump?

Finally, I live in San Diego and Scripps Institute still provides fresh seawater from several hundred yards off shore. They use this water for the own tanks and years ago, it was used almost exclusively by hobbists for their tanks. Has anybody had any experience in using this water in lieu of sea mix?

Wow, that’s a lot of questions. Thanks for any input. You guys have been real helpful so far and I hope as I continue moving forward in the hobby, I can impart some additional pearls of wisdom.

[wesley6610]

You seem to be on the right track, but I can't stress enough that mapping out and drawing your masterpiece many times before would be the best way of doing things. You obviously know that this will be a serious investment both up front and to maintain, but that is where your desire and planning come in. You don't always have to get everything at once, but some things like a good light, skimmer and power heads are a must. Other things with careful planning right now before you buy a thing will help you along the way. Deciding if you are going to have a pre-drilled tank or overflow box for one and whether you will have an in-sump return pump or external is another example of careful planning. So make sure that you don't skimp in the planning stage, it will save you lots of money and headache of re-doing stuff later, even if you do hire a cleaning service.

[mblock]

Uh Oh. New issues before I even have the first set of questions explored.

"Pre-drilled tank or overflow box"? What does this mean and pro/cons of either? While I am at it, what would be the recommended size of tubing running through the equipment? I suspect larger is better to reduce heat and help flow rates. True?

"In-sump or external return pump"? Why does this matter? I think I recall someone saying the external pump tends to produce additional heat, so I was leaning toward internal but are there any other considerations?

[wesley6610]

Pre-drilled tanks are more expensive and is just that the tanks bottom glass has a hole drilled in it so that you can install an overflow kit inside the tank, but look better and sometimes less noisey and no need for priming the siphon. Overflow box are cheaper and allow for you to customize where you want your water taken out of your tank at, they hang on the side or back of the tank. Tubing should be left to a minimum, but some people feel the ripple tubing will promote oxygen exchange.

I like in sump pumps in case of leaks, they won't run onto the floor and if they go out, you don't have to change the pump inside a bucket. They have the tendency to make your water slightly warm, but that can be insignificant depending on the size of your tank. It won't be noticeable.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

75$'s or so will get your tank drilled,but if you dont have a tank you can buy one drilled.I view hang on sumps as doing something almost right I just dont trust siphons. I am from the old school too and remember how many times I had trouble with a siphon.Get the biggest sump tank you can fit in your stand,this is for several reasons.More water volume means more water stability.You can have a larger fuge meaning more nutrient export.Your skimmer can go in the sump.Also your return line comes back to the tank thru one of the holes drilled in the tank.Your sump should be devided into three parts.At oposite ends you want the skimmer and the fuge.The center is for your return pump.Digest that for a while,and bring on the questions lol.

[wesley6610]

I agree, pre-drilled is much better than hang over the side boxes, the less moving parts and areas for problems the better, besides no over the tank boxes means that you can move the tank closer to the wall.

[msbdiving]

[I]Am I correct in assuming the sump would be approximately half the size of the aquarium? Can I put the fuge and the protein skimmer in the sump? It also seems as if the fuge obviates the need for a “filter”. Is that correct?

Half the size would be appropriate. It is actually preferred to put the fuge and skimmer in the sump. The sand, skimmer, and macro algae will act as the filter for the fuge.

Pictures I have seen show a light requirement for the fuge and I am wondering how many watts that should be? Will such a light be sufficient to heat the water or is a heater still necessary?

The light requirement for the fuge would be enough for the macro, about 1/2-1wpg. As for the heaters, I would use two smaller ones, more for winter. That way, if one gets stuck on or malfunctions somehow, it takes longer to have an effect on your tank.

I have also seen, in pictures of other aquariums on this web site, additional power heads placed in the tank, presumably for circulation. This may seem silly but I am wondering where the “power” in power head comes from. Are we talking about the main circulating pump driving the power heads or are they, the haeds, just electric driven propellers, if you will, that move water independent of the main circulation device? While I am thinking about it, is turning over the water in the tank two times per hour sufficient or is a larger pump necessary?

Ideally, your turnover should be 10x per hour or more. You would want to get adjustable nozzles so you can move them a little and change up the current every now and then to keep junk from collecting in any dead spots.

As far as the substarte goes, go with sand or argonite. 3-4 inches would be a good start. I think there is a calculator that figures out how many pounds are needed based off the tank dimensions I believe about 2lbs per gallon is a rule off thumb. Same goes for the live rock, about 1.5-2lbs per gallon.

I am kinda leary about using ocean water. I have not talked to anybody that has actually used it from Scripps.

Hope this provides a start.

[NATIVEVAMAN]

CircMarArt

[NATIVEVAMAN]

DSB article - CALFO

[NATIVEVAMAN]

Deep Sand Beds

[mblock]

Thank you all for the continuing information. I'm still fighting with the email notification as nothing is being sent to me and unless I physically check in here, I don't know of all the wonderful information being provided.

I have once again set the email notification to instant and maybe it will stick this time.

Very frustrating.