[ksreefbuilder]

ok, I know everyone will get in a fight about this, but I need to through it out in the open to get my answer. I have read hours and hours of info on lighting, and am as confused as ever. It is all about new vs old I guess... I want to know what most of you experienced guys would do if in my situation. I am starting up a new larger 110 gal tall tank, and dont know what to do about the lighting. The tank measures 48x18x31 with corner overflow and will have a vented canopy. I have lots of different polyps, anemones, frogspawn, and hammer corals and a few fish. I am very happy with everything I have, but everything is getting crowded. I am debating on 3 different lighting units and want to know which I should pick to have the best setup. The first is a T5 unit with 8 54w 1100K bulbs, second is a metal halide unit with 2 250w 1500K bulbs, and third is a combo unit with 4 65w power compacts and 2 250w metal halide bulbs. I want to keep my tank happy and be able to keep my larger anemones on the tank floor. Please let me know what I should do. Thanks in advance

[WILLIAM1]

T5's honestly are great for the money. Your tank is not much bigger than mine and I run 8 T5's. MH bulbs will more than likely send you out for a new chiller.

[ksreefbuilder]

ok, william thats the kind of info I want and need. I am leaning twards the T5 as well, but want to have the light I need at the bottom of the tank. THANKS

[ksreefbuilder]

also, today my LFS tald me that a 4 bulb 216 watt T5 unit is equal to a 400 w metal halide unit. Is their any truth to this or are they just trying to make a sale?

[plecosword]

It really depends on tank size and what youll be keeping...

[ksreefbuilder]

I will be keeping my new 110 gal 48x18x31 tank with corner overflow and vented canopy. The LFS owner said geting an 8 bulb T5 would just be a wast of money for the corals I have. He said the 4 54w T5 bulbs would be more than enough... but it was news to me. Any thoughts?

[plecosword]

I think t-5 8x would do. but since your tank is 31", I would go with MH with t-5 or PC.

[plecosword]

now hows does this sound:

• 2x250MH - 10000k
• 2x54 T-5 Actinics Or 4x65w PC actinics

[ksreefbuilder]

Well, I would like something like that, but I think 500w metal halide would cause major heat issues. My 75 gal stays at 80 right now with only 300 watts of metal halide. 200 more watts would have to cause a lot more heat... right?

[WILLIAM1]

Your 31" deep right? The 8 T'5s should be enough to have good par, but not sure being that deep. My tank is about24" deep and I have a gigas clam in the sand bed that gets more than enough light. You know what the ticket would be 2X250w MH I will drop a link to the same set up I have for the frag tank I'm building but I have the 400w. If your running a refugium you can set up a nice fan blowing in there and a few fans in the canopy to direct air in and out. Reeflux 12K bulbs there will be no need for any T5's or PC's. Get the dimmable ballast and you can upgrade the ballast if you want as well . You will have to DIY a canopy to fit them when you do that leave the top open for hot air to escape.. They are best ran 18" above the surface I think.
Reef Specialty

[plecosword]

usually, you go with MH when the tank is over 24" deep. you get less of a heat issue with T-5 though. Here is a great article that will help.
Aquarium Lighting: Quick Guide to Aquarium Lighting

[ksreefbuilder]

Originally Posted by plecosword

usually, you go with MH when the tank is over 24" deep. you get less of a heat issue with T-5 though. Here is a great article that will help.
Aquarium Lighting: Quick Guide to Aquarium Lighting

Thanks for the link, thast makes me lean twards the metal halides a lot more. Should I look at units with just metal halides or do I need the actinic lights as well?

[pogodzib]

Originally Posted by plecosword

usually, you go with MH when the tank is over 24" deep. you get less of a heat issue with T-5 though. Here is a great article that will help.
Aquarium Lighting: Quick Guide to Aquarium Lighting

Originally Posted by plecosword

now hows does this sound:

• 2x250MH - 10000k
• 2x54 T-5 Actinics Or 4x65w PC actinics

I agree with both quotes above. The T5 HO supplemental lighting would be prefered over the PCs. My tank is 30" tall and I like the penetration that the MH provide. I don't think T5 HO bulbs would be as good for keeping the more light demanding corals near the bottom of the tank, although some of the top end T5 HO units may be ok.

[ksreefbuilder]

ok, well I am 50/50 on the metal halide combo light and 8 lamp T5. Please everyone vote.

[e_baer]

Ok, To get this right, you may have to go back into some of nativevamans posts about t-5, but I am 90% sure that t-5 ho or vho would have good penetration at that deep. Becuase of the individual reflectors your get 300% (according to native) better penetration that t-5 withought the reflectors. So, all in all, the ups and downs of t-5 and MH are about penetration, cost effectiveness, bulb life and shimmering.

Why many people like the MH even though they may not need it is the shimmering effect, which I have to admit is VERY nice. however the bulb life of MH is much less and will possibly cause heat issues.

If I had to choose one, I would go with the t-5 just because I have heard so much about it. I have also seen them in person and they are very nice and quite bright!

[e_baer]

Imagine PC lghts on steroids. Thats how brigtht the t-5's are.

[ksreefbuilder]

yes, i have seen them as well, but always get mixed answers on if I should use T5. One place says better for 20 inch tall tanks, another place says more light than a 400w metal halide, and my lfs said I need to double the watts posted on ant T5 and that they penetrate better than any other.

[TulsaReefer]

I'm planning to use T5s over my new 220G (72x24x30) that I'm starting to build out. I've been using T5s over my current 110 (60x18x24) and the PAR readings I get at the sand level (about 22 to 23" down) are in the mid 200's, which is pretty good. And that's with only 4 overdriven (using Icecap ballast) 48" tubes and Icecap reflectors. I also have a pair of VHO Actinics, but they don't add significantly to the PAR. My plan on the 220 is to use 8 rows of T5s, but for the length I'll have to add a second set to each row, so I'll have a 48" and 24" on each row. Half of the rows using Icecap reflectors that I already own, the other half using Aquatinics reflectors (supposed to be really good, and only 2" wide). After I add a few inches of sand I'm pretty confident I'll be able to keep almost anything I want, and it's likely I'll have to be a bit selective about what goes shallower, as the light levels up shallower will be pretty high.

I'd consider Halides, but I already have over half the equipment I need for T5s from my 110 that I'll be taking down, and don't want to invest in all new lights. My calculations on bulb replacement costs and energy costs for a year are about a wash on Halides and T5s, so that doesn't make much difference in the end. And cooling is not much differenct to me, my new hood is probably tall enough for some of the lower profile halide reflectors, but I also cool my T5s, so I'm not sure if I'd have less fans with my T5 setup over a Halide system.

[plecosword]

Elliott! you have got to get a new avatar, this one always gives me a feeling of throughing up.

[e_baer]

lol....ok I will look for a better one

happy now?

[plecosword]

Originally Posted by e_baer

lol....ok I will look for a better one

happy now?

Yeah really is! Thanks, Ill change my eel, or sock puppet lol

[plecosword]

So I guess its between all T-5 or MH with T-5 or PC.

[ksreefbuilder]

yes, I would like the T5 if it would give me the light I need, both are around 500, but I want the best for my money. Thanks

[pogodzib]

I know my preference and I'm not going to lobby one way or another, but since it might help make the decision for Parsonsc easier, for the people recommending T5 HO or MH, who has used them and over what depth of tank. I think most people will agree that those two types of lighting will be the best, but having the light penetrate a 30" deep tank is much different than light penetrating a 24" or 18" tall tank, esp. if we are talking about a 30" tank with a SSB versus a 18-24" deep tank with a DSB.

My tank is a 30" tall tank with a SSB that is light by 250w MH and VHOs.

[ksreefbuilder]

Thanks, you took the words out of my mouth Brian. I want to know what people are using on their 30 inch tanks and what is working for them. If I was going to have a regular tank I would just stick withthe combo light I have now, but I am adding 10+ inches of water and the 150MH just wonk cut it. Also I will have around a 3-4 in dsb.