[Cowiebunga]

We just bought a BABY (as in very small) hippo tang. Our water levels are good, as are water temps. He just wants to lay at the bottom like he's in shock. I don't understand why he'd be in shock, as we have acclimated him well. Any suggestions??

[pyromaniac398]

Hmm what are your water params? How did you acclimate? Was it gasping on the way home/during acclimation? Many things could be the cause. Sorry to hear you tang is struggling I'm pulling for him

[Cowiebunga]

well. i think he died last night. He was looking weak at the pet store, but i thought it was because the guy was rough getting him out of the tank. He wasn't doing good on the way home. Now he's laying behind some of the rockwork, and I don't think he's moving anymore.
How depressing. Poor thing..
thanks though

[pyromaniac398]

Sorry to hear about your loss. Usually try and steer away from fish that don't look healthy/ are not eating at your LFS. You can even ask the LFS if they will feed the fish so you can make sure it eats before you buy it.

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by Cowiebunga

well. i think he died last night. He was looking weak at the pet store, but i thought it was because the guy was rough getting him out of the tank. He wasn't doing good on the way home. Now he's laying behind some of the rockwork, and I don't think he's moving anymore.
How depressing. Poor thing..
thanks though

Sorry for your loss.

Buy your things at the LFS and leave them there for a week. Take the time to stop in and see how whatever it is you bought is doing. If its a fish, make sure it is eating. Ask to see it fed. Pay with a Visa card and if your new critter/s have even the slightest thing wrong with them get a refund. If the LFS will not refund your money then call Visa and refuse to make payment and let Visa take care of the rest.

This of course all happens before you get it home and put it in a QT for at least a few weeks for observation.

Buying fish and corals for your tank is a big deal and it is a lot of work. Just acclimating them and putting them into your tank is not enough IMO. It works for some but it hasnt for me.

Good luck with the next fish.

[demonsquirt]

Please list readings you test for and there levels , rather then all params are fine.

But i suspect you have a low O2 saturation level.
What size tank?
Whats used for water movement or any powerheads?

Then , water movement will overcome the problem of thermal layering by mixing the warm and cold water layers, so we end up with an evenly heated tank.

The movement of water in the tank also prevents the formation of a film on the water surface, which would inhibit gaseous exchange between the water and the air.

Water moving around the tank effectively increases the surface area of the tank by constantly changing the layer of water in contact with the atmosphere. This, of course, dramatically increases the rate at which oxygen can be dissolved into the water and carbon dioxide released into the air. Well oxygenated water is essential for the health of the fishes, plus, we can keep more fishes in a given space if the water is well oxygenated.

Moving water carries oxygen to the nitrifying bacteria in the tank, which are responsible for the breakdown of harmful waste products, and also carries nutrients to the plants.

A strong movement of water in the aquarium, as produced by a power filter, provides the fishes with a current in which to swim, and many fishes find this both enjoyable and beneficial.

As you can see then, water movement in the aquarium can be tailored to suit the type of environment we wish to establish.

[demonsquirt]

About.com: http://www.aquariacentral.com/articles/movement.shtml

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by demonsquirt

Please list readings you test for and there levels , rather then all params are fine.

But i suspect you have a low O2 saturation level.
What size tank?
Whats used for water movement or any powerheads?

Then , water movement will overcome the problem of thermal layering by mixing the warm and cold water layers, so we end up with an evenly heated tank.

The movement of water in the tank also prevents the formation of a film on the water surface, which would inhibit gaseous exchange between the water and the air.

Water moving around the tank effectively increases the surface area of the tank by constantly changing the layer of water in contact with the atmosphere. This, of course, dramatically increases the rate at which oxygen can be dissolved into the water and carbon dioxide released into the air. Well oxygenated water is essential for the health of the fishes, plus, we can keep more fishes in a given space if the water is well oxygenated.

Moving water carries oxygen to the nitrifying bacteria in the tank, which are responsible for the breakdown of harmful waste products, and also carries nutrients to the plants.

A strong movement of water in the aquarium, as produced by a power filter, provides the fishes with a current in which to swim, and many fishes find this both enjoyable and beneficial.

As you can see then, water movement in the aquarium can be tailored to suit the type of environment we wish to establish.

I guess this is the answer to everything....lol

[demonsquirt]

You would be surprised how many dont relize how salt water recieves oxygen. Its not always the reason but in many cases it is. Also with such little of there tank info then my guess might be just as good as anyone elses.
Its very easy to ask and the answer is just as easy and if it is this then the dure is even easier. Just trying to help.

Originally Posted by jimw369

I guess this is the answer to everything....lol

[jimw369]

No harm intended...just saw that you posted the same thing in some other threads.

[demonsquirt]

Cool. Im sure it seems wierd but with many fish problems the amount of flow and tank size should be asked first , IMO. Not poking but what do you use for water movement in your 90 and type of stock ? Just curious?

Originally Posted by jimw369

No harm intended...just saw that you posted the same thing in some other threads.

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by demonsquirt

Cool. Im sure it seems wierd but with many fish problems the amount of flow and tank size should be asked first , IMO. Not poking but what do you use for water movement in your 90 and type of stock ? Just curious?

3 Koralia 4s and 600 gph from the return pump.

Too much different stock. 25-30 softy-LPS and 16 SPS (mostly colonys), 5 Clams and a too big blue carpet.

hippo,foxface,5 green chromis,6 line wrasse, coral beauty, some wierd clown,pink skunk,royal gramma and a Copper band Butterfly in QT waiting 3 more weeks to be added.

You can click on my name and see some pics in my album. I will add newer pics soon.

[demonsquirt]

See you have around 40 times exchange not counting the return. The return may help some but never factor it in as its amount only helps and never hurts.

And stoneys love higher flow. How did you come to having this much flow? By chance or preplanned through research?

[jimw369]

Originally Posted by demonsquirt

See you have around 40 times exchange not counting the return. The return may help some but never factor it in as its amount only helps and never hurts.

And stoneys love higher flow. How did you come to having this much flow? By chance or preplanned through research?

I think Id better figure in the flow from my return. I have split the lockline and added 2 inductors. The return pump is an Iswaki MD RLT40 that works very well with the little back pressure the inductors create. Slows the rate of return down to just what my return pipe will handle.

Yes Ive done some research and thats how I wound up with that much flow for the SPS.

[demonsquirt]

Im not sure on your return setup. If it is rated at 600 gph from the source and you split the line then this with the distance to the jet lowers the actuall amount atleast half if not more. In your case this little amount has no effect but if someone is lacking then that little amount can do wonders. Got any pics of your tenk ?

Originally Posted by jimw369

I think Id better figure in the flow from my return. I have split the lockline and added 2 inductors. The return pump is an Iswaki MD RLT40 that works very well with the little back pressure the inductors create. Slows the rate of return down to just what my return pipe will handle.

Yes Ive done some research and thats how I wound up with that much flow for the SPS.

[jimw369]

My you are a wealth of information being new to the hobby.

Pics of my tankup to the end of February can be seen in my album here at Reef Builders.

Could you post some pics of your tank?
We love pics here at RB!

[demonsquirt]

Not that new. Febuary was a long time ago but ill check out.

[jimw369]

Any pics of your tank?

[demonsquirt]

[jimw369]

Any full tank shots?

[demonsquirt]

Nothing current.I will get one and post though.

[DEWAYNE]

I would like to see a full tank shot as well, not new to the hobby, but need to learn as much as possible about the identity of my new reef setup. "will work for corals."LOL

[Krazy]

"Small" blue hippos have a high death rate.

Hippos also are ich magnets, especially at that size.

Sorry for the loss, I hate seeing fish die.

[demonsquirt]

Your flow is up there but i dought the problem.
COuld be a bad fish and also in some countries they use a drug to catch them and sometimes it takes a few weeks for this drug to kill.