[dinor2]

I really think that replacing your ph's with koralias will help get that temp down, and add even more flow in your tank, they help 'spread the flow' out more thru the tank than the mj's. Just mho, I'm still learning this hobby myself so I could be totally off base with that!

[demonsquirt]

Sorry didnt read all replys but. The flow you stated works to be about 500 gph. In a mixed reef 90 you want a minimum of 1800 gph exchange and i would go with 30 or 40 times. SPS and other coral perfer good flow over lighting.
Then what type of food is added to the tank and amount and scedule. Then the flow is what brings the food source to the coral and it needs to circulate a few times giving them time to capture. Buts of food like cyclops and even brine shrimp works well also A well mixed diet from flake to frozen is best. Like 4 or 5 types.

Heres a few links..

www.asira.org - Coral CareÂ*

Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light, Part V

Common Saltwater Aquarium Mistakes 10 Most Common Saltwater Aquarium Mistakes

[N9CQB]

Dana & Lance, thanks for advice.
w/o the 3 PHs on the temp is 82. w/o the 2nd set of PCs (260w) on, temp is 80. The Koralias may be the answer, but I'll have to wait.
So the 900 gph return in the sump is not enough?? and that's why the green junk is on the glass??
Recommendations for a different return pump anyone??
Food is frozen meaty types incl mysis + plankton + occasionally flake food.
Ususally feed once/day

[demonsquirt]

If the return pump is rated 900 gph at the source then factors like distance and elbows and return jets and even algea build up in the pump and plumbing then its more like 450 gph at the return or even less.

You want a minimum of 20 times exchange and from two sources. SW recieves its oxygen supply from surface exchange or a gas exchange at the surface and the more flow the better.
Proper flow and powerhead setup will reduce any uneatin food or fish waste or other debris from collecting on the bottom and around the rockwork. This after time causes nitrate and other trouble that water changes alone wont fix.
Then coral recieve food from the flow , whene you feed then if the food can pass by them more then 1 time then better chance of catching food.

Also good flow will help control algea.

Then your LR and LS are your best bio filter but in low or wrong flow they become a problem source and will lack pods and beneficial bacteria layer.

Its water source then correct flow then minimum LR and LS .

[N9CQB]

Thanks Lance. BIG HELP !
I was leaning that way myself because the head is about 3 ft from the pump.
I will invest in a better inline pump rather than a submersible to lower temp.
Then, would you reccommend (or anyone) cleaning the LR with water flow from a PH to dislodge the build up???
Anything else I need to do to make the LR & LS work better ???

[demonsquirt]

The additional flow will retard its growth. Want you want to do is right before you perform your water change clean about 1/4 of the rocks. Then the drain will remove more of this waste then a hang on back media filter to collect the rest. Do this for a few weeks and you will see a big differance.
Cleaning to much at one time could raise nitrates to unwanted levels. Or if you can remove some rock and give it a good fresh water dip and with a soft brush ( i use automotive wire brushes whene needed) to clean and rinse well before adding back in.

[N9CQB]

I have a Mag 12 & will hook it up to boost the flow.
I think re arranging the LR so it's not so close to the back of the tank will help prevent detritus build up.
I'll do it gradually so I dont spike anything